Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

there's a few things you can do, some wont increase torque - but will help you get off the line quicker.

- extractors

- sensible sized exhaust

- lightened components (i.e. flywheel, tailshaft, rims, etc).

- nitrous

personally i'd go for the flywheel, thats on one of my list of things to do.

hope that helps

eug

there's a few things you can do, some wont increase torque - but will help you get off the line quicker.

- extractors

- sensible sized exhaust

- lightened components (i.e. flywheel, tailshaft, rims, etc).

- nitrous

personally i'd go for the flywheel, thats on one of my list of things to do.

hope that helps

eug

pfft, forgot 3L bottom end

Cams could help (if you want to sacrifice top end) Maybe a tune?

bigger (or twin) TB, more compression........

hmm i've always thought that the higher the torque.. the better the off de line acceleration..

I thought longer stroke are a big no no in engine world??

A longer stroke is a big no-no if you want an engine to rev. So if you're chasing outright power (especially with a NA engine) then you want something with a short stroke. But if you want something to pull boats or carry a family, you'd buy something with a long stroke (like those old Holden V8s)

Lots of torque is great for rolling acceleration. Off the line its good too, but cars without torque tend to be geared accordingly and can mask it a bit better. For example, I remember reading a review of a petrol powered BMW X3 vs the diesel X3. The petrol had a 0.1s advantage 0-100, but the torquey diesel was significantly faster at the in-gear 40-80 and 80-120 times.

Be aware, that when you change the flywheel to a lighter component, you will start to require more throttle when climbing hills. And by more throttle, I mean a significant amount of throttle change for hills.

.............Which means you effectively have less torque in the low-end while rolling.

Be aware, that when you change the flywheel to a lighter component, you will start to require more throttle when climbing hills. And by more throttle, I mean a significant amount of throttle change for hills.

i dont have a lightened flywheel so i cant give my personal opinion... but i have heard otherwise... maybe a search might yield some results (i know i will when i get a spare minute)

as long as you are reasonable with the weight of the flywheel i.e. 6kg then i dont see a problem. once you start dropping down to 4.8kg flywheels then expect a significant change in driveability.

for the record i believe the standard fly is somewhere in the vicinity of 7-9kg?

Be aware, that when you change the flywheel to a lighter component, you will start to require more throttle when climbing hills. And by more throttle, I mean a significant amount of throttle change for hills.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but that statement is just plain wrong.

The motor will be dragging 1500kg of car up the hill. So a kilo or two in flywheel weight imakes no difference at all.

The motor will be dragging 1500kg of car up the hill. So a kilo or two in flywheel weight imakes no difference at all.

Are you speaking from personal experience?

I am, when I say that after installing my JUN lightweight flywheel (14lbs vs the OEM 28lbs) I started having to drop down a cog on hills that I previously could traverse in top gear. Most prevalent when doing 60km/hr, since the engine's only turning over at 1500RPM or so.

In the context of the original question (off the line torque) if you're doing a hard launch a lightweight flywheel would be an advantage. The engine will rev harder.

Edited by scathing
Please don't take this the wrong way, but that statement is just plain wrong.

The motor will be dragging 1500kg of car up the hill. So a kilo or two in flywheel weight imakes no difference at all.

Ah mate, the difference isn't in the weight of the car dropping, if it was, the car would accelerate better.

What the difference is, the flywheel actually stores energy.

Seriously, do some research on flywheels etc and why they're used.

A lighter flywheel can't store as much energy, hence, you need to supply more energy from the engine to go up hills.

Oh, and I'm talking from a theory point of view in studying engineering, and from a practical point of view seeing how I run a lightweight flywheel in my R33.

Hence, if you're talking from "guesstimates" and no real study or experience, STFU!

ive seen it

an old datto 1200 with an A14 with a lightned flywheel had to keep knocking back a cog up a certain hill otherwise it would almost stall, whereas a similar 1200 with a a12 and standard flywheel had no probs

its got to do with rotational mass, same thing with sprung vs unsprung weight on a car

add chunky bling chromes, and ur acceleration is shit

go to light forged rims - marked increase in acceleration over stock

Ah mate, the difference isn't in the weight of the car dropping, if it was, the car would accelerate better.

What the difference is, the flywheel actually stores energy.

Seriously, do some research on flywheels etc and why they're used.

A lighter flywheel can't store as much energy, hence, you need to supply more energy from the engine to go up hills.

Oh, and I'm talking from a theory point of view in studying engineering, and from a practical point of view seeing how I run a lightweight flywheel in my R33.

Hence, if you're talking from "guesstimates" and no real study or experience, STFU!

OK, well first things first - it is nice to be nice. So maybe it is not so polite to tell people to ^*#@ off all the time.

Secondly, it is usually an indication of someone having a lack of proof that they trot out their qualifications. So if you want to get into pissing competition about how qualified an engineer should be before making a statement then I would submit my degree from UWA & 10+ years as a practising mechanical engineer.

Now, with regard to stored energy. There are two situations we need to consider:

1. When the clutch in disengaged, ie there is no drive. In this circumstance a lighter flywheel will reduce the inertia of the motor & allow it to gain or lose revs more easilly. You notice it when you blip the throttle & also to a lesser degree when you dump the clutch. It usually makes the car more driveable except off the line.

2. When the car is being driven by the motor the motor & the flywheel are connected to a few things. Like the clutch, the gearbox, tailshaft, the diff, the halfshafts, the wheels etc etc. It is also propelling the body of the car along. So as I said the engine "sees" approx 1500kg of mass that is needs to propel. In all that a lightened flywheel makes next to no difference.

Lastly, you said

"A lighter flywheel can't store as much energy, hence, you need to supply more energy from the engine to go up hills."

Now I had thought the idea was to ACCELERATE up the hills, not just coast up them. That being the case a lightened flywheel will allow the car to accelerate that little bit faster both because of its lower mass & its lower rotational inertia. The faster you go the more energy is stored in the flywheel, so unless you are trying to get up the hill and slowing down whilst doing so you cannot recover ANY of the energy stored by the flywheel.

As an aside:

Seeing as you are an engineering student you would remenber that the energy of a rigid body in rotation is described by the equation:

T=05xIxwxw. (read as Tee eqauls half I omega squared)

So lets assume our new flywheel is 80% of the rotational inertia of the heavier,older one. It means you need an extra 826 rpm (ie an increase of 7000 to 7826rpm) to store an equivalent amount of energy in the flywheel. Unfortunately you will also be storing much more energy in the crank, pistons, conrods, cams, pumps, drives etc etc. So the difference in stored energy is more likely to be down near a couple of hundred rpm.

:P

djr, seriously, have you put a lightened flywheel in your car, and taken it for a drive.

I have, the change is ENORMOUS!

Acceleration IS affected when going up the hills.

If you haven't physically put a lightened flywheel, in your car, and taken it for a drive back to back to compare, then don't spout that I'm wrong. I HAVE a lightened 5KG Chrome Moly flywheel IN my car RIGHT NOW. And you need a fair amount of throttle to get it up a hill, compared to running a stock flywheel.

And in 5th gear, a change in 786RPM, approx is a change in 30km/h.

So trying to get the same amount of energy up there, in that flywheel, you need to be running 30km/h faster. That's a fair wack more speed needed, even if you take into account everything else like pistons etc.

It is proven, day in, day out, in race cars, road cars, all the way through history, the lighter flywheel will be able to accelerate, unmassed alot more quickly, BUT, it will also SLOW a lot more quickly.

A larger flywheel, requires more energy to get moving, but once at that RPM, it takes a fair bit more energy to slow down that flywheel.

And your 1500KG of weight your trying to PULL, is different to the flywheel you're trying to turn.

And if you want to attempt to prove me wrong, firstly go fit a light weight flywheel to your car and you'll find that it isin fact correct what I've said.

And within regard to the other message, that was a mixture of bad day + being annoyed with people who've never actually attempted any of this stuff talking from "thought". So I do have to apologise there.

I know, I sound agro in some of this, but me = tired, and I'm not trying to be, just difference is I've ran lightened flywheel, and have physically experienced it.

djr, seriously, have you put a lightened flywheel in your car, and taken it for a drive.

I have, the change is ENORMOUS!

Acceleration IS affected when going up the hills.

If you haven't physically put a lightened flywheel, in your car, and taken it for a drive back to back to compare, then don't spout that I'm wrong. I HAVE a lightened 5KG Chrome Moly flywheel IN my car RIGHT NOW. And you need a fair amount of throttle to get it up a hill, compared to running a stock flywheel.

And in 5th gear, a change in 786RPM, approx is a change in 30km/h.

So trying to get the same amount of energy up there, in that flywheel, you need to be running 30km/h faster. That's a fair wack more speed needed, even if you take into account everything else like pistons etc.

It is proven, day in, day out, in race cars, road cars, all the way through history, the lighter flywheel will be able to accelerate, unmassed alot more quickly, BUT, it will also SLOW a lot more quickly.

A larger flywheel, requires more energy to get moving, but once at that RPM, it takes a fair bit more energy to slow down that flywheel.

And your 1500KG of weight your trying to PULL, is different to the flywheel you're trying to turn.

And if you want to attempt to prove me wrong, firstly go fit a light weight flywheel to your car and you'll find that it isin fact correct what I've said.

And within regard to the other message, that was a mixture of bad day + being annoyed with people who've never actually attempted any of this stuff talking from "thought". So I do have to apologise there.

I know, I sound agro in some of this, but me = tired, and I'm not trying to be, just difference is I've ran lightened flywheel, and have physically experienced it.

I will try to explain why I disagree with you. Please don't crack the sh!ts if some of it sounds condescending, but I guess other people may read it also.

Anyway we have basically two forms of energy of motion.

Potential energy.

Kinetic energy.

Now potential energy is simply energy stored by gaining height. It is equal to mass times height times gravity. ie E=mgh.

Believe it or not we can largely ignore it, but we wont.

Kinetic energy is the energy stored in motion of a moving body. For a linear case (ie straight line) it is equal to half the mass times the velocity squared. For a rotational case it is equal to half the moment of rotational inertia times the angular velocity squared. As you can see the linear & angular equations are expressed in a very similar way - basically because they are very similar equations & are derived the same way.

Now to our case of going up a hill.

Assume we are in 4th gear going, say 100km/h. We go 10 metres up the hill (vertically) & accelerate to 110km/h going from 3000rpm to 3100rpm at the same time. The numbers aren't particularly important, but they make it easier to understand. So what happens to our three types of energy?

Well if we go up 10 metres we gain 10 metres worth of potential energy. So 1500kg times 10 metres times 9.81 which is the gravitational constant. So that increases by whatever the sum works out to be.

What happens to our linear kinetic energy?

We have gone from 100 km/h to 110km/h. So we now have 0.5 times 1500 times (110 squared - 100 squared). Technically it should be expressed as metres per second, not km/h but I am not going to work it out, so it doesn't matter.

We have a gain in linear kinetic energy because we are now going faster.

What happens to out rotational kinetic energy?

We have gone from (say) 3000rpm to 3100rpm. So we now have 0.5 times the rotational inertia of the whole drivetrain times (3100 squared - 3000 squared). Again angular velocity should be measured in radians per second but I am not going to do the sum. We have a gain in rotational kinetic energy.

This energy is provided by the power of the motor, obviously. This will equal the potential energy gain + the linear kinetic energy gain + the rotational kinetic energy gain + whatever frictional losses we have (eg aero drag etc)

So how does a lightened flywheel effect the three sums?

Potential energy. Well the gain in potential energy is slightly less because the mass is less.

Linear kinetic energy. Well the gain in linear kinetic energy is slightly less because the mass is less.

Rotational kinetic energy. The gain here is less because the rotational inertia is slightly less.

What does this mean?

Simply that the car with the lightened flywheel needs less power to accelerate up a hill than the same car with a heavier flywheel. Less power = less throttle.

Why it may feel different.

Simply because as you said when you drop rpm on the motor (eg when you launch) there is less rotational kinetic energy to turn into linear kinetic energy. So the motor feels more "gutless" on launch. Which is where I think alot of people get a bit confused.

Lastly.

My new car is due to be unloaded Monday. When it gets to the workshop I am going to fit a lightened flywheel - and use less throttle getting up the hills around home! :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
×
×
  • Create New...