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As above, they use electrospark erode.

But if thats not an option, try welding a nut to the stud stub and then get into it while its still hot. Usually the combo of a nut welded on [good leverage] and the heat loosens thwe stud.

I don't like thread guys with the electro zappy thing. IMO, welding a nut on works everytime.

Some people are good at using easyouts. I haven't had a good experience. They're very brittle. Skilled people can. My theory on it is, the stud/bolt broke for a reason. It is because it's seized in there. So if a spanner on a big nut can't undo it, a skinny little thing in the middle of the stud/bolt won't remove it.

Using a tig to weld a nut on it heats it up too and can help break the bond. If the nut snaps off, we just weld another one on until it comes off.

Ive snapped 5 studs in total now in my rb25, and never once has one of them left a tail poking out of the head.... How do you remove a stud thats IN the head?

Steve

I don't like thread guys with the electro zappy thing. IMO, welding a nut on works everytime.

Some people are good at using easyouts. I haven't had a good experience. They're very brittle. Skilled people can. My theory on it is, the stud/bolt broke for a reason. It is because it's seized in there. So if a spanner on a big nut can't undo it, a skinny little thing in the middle of the stud/bolt won't remove it.

Using a tig to weld a nut on it heats it up too and can help break the bond. If the nut snaps off, we just weld another one on until it comes off.

some can use an easyout (I don't know how to use them without snapping them).

I put a washer on it (to protect the head) then get my friend to weld it - build up the weld till it comes up. Then weld it to the washer. Put a nut on the washer ,and keep building up the weld till the nut is filled. Then undo it.

Get the thread guy out as you are stuck now.

Easy outs are a piece of piss to use, it's all about being careful.

1) center punch the snapped stud so you are centered when you drill

2) pilot hole with a small drill and make sure you are as close to square as possible (90 degree adapters help if you are doing it on the car). go right through the stud (about 15mm) new drill bits make life easy here. 10 bucks in drill bits is a small price to pay. If you can drill it without snapping the small drill bit then you can use an easy out.

3) drill it as big as you can without being bigger than the stud obviously, The stud usually loosens and spins in as you drill if you are square as they are not bottomed out

4) use the biggest easyout you can, it means it's less likely to snap

5) do not use a big shifter, use a small 12mm shifter if you don't have space for a proper tee. and support the easyout so you aren't pushing the whole lot off center when trying to turn the thing out. It won't be so tight you cant move it with minimal effort, it will just be the end of the thread is damaged slightly from the shoulder of the stud. That combined with the heat fatigue of the stud is the reason it snapped in the first place.

the studs break because they have been worn out with excessive expansion and contraction with the heat, the material used back then was shit. sometimes they just fall out without doing anything to them. i had a few missing when i took my head off as well as some breaking when i took the manifold off.

for $1.50 each from nissan you can have brand spankers in there.

easy outs work well, i find using a shitload of wd40 helps as well as the biggest possible easy-out bit that will work. the small ones WILL snap and if they get stuck in there you have to either get a diamond drill or do the nut-welding jobbie.

Joe, you good at using easy outs? If I ever need to use em, I'm gonna get you to do it :happy:

I dunno, just never had a good experience with them. If I need to remove someting, it's usually because the bolt has been seized in, and it's sheered the head. So that means it's stuck in really really really really really tight. So tight that wd/penetrene/crc/inox can't even penetrate it.

I figure, if the whole big bolt will snap, the thin easyout has no chance.

Oh! I just read what you wrote BHDave. In that case, I reckon the easyout would be alright. I meant they snap when the bolt is seized in big time.

My friend helped me to remove a bolt using the welding method. The bolt was totally dry when it was removed. The part had been soaked in a bucket of wd for days. That's how seized it was

I just replaced all my exhaust manifold studs today.

Had 6 snapped studs.. I just used a easy out tool. Ended up using a smaller drill bit that came with the packet and grinded the easy out tool down a bit so i didn't have to drill in so much.

Took about 5 hours but only used 1 easy out tool and snapped 1 drill bit.

  • 2 weeks later...

i ended up getting the last 1 out.. i usually can get them out fairly easily but this one was stuck in good!! welding the nut on the end worked very well.. it failed 3 times but the 4th time i got it.. welding the nut on the end works very well if you have the tools available to you.

I have just been through this with 5 snapped studs they were all snaped off flush with the head I decided to get threadtech out to pull them and remove the un broken ones took about an hour and $110 well worth the money now just to get a new gasket and set of studs

  • 1 year later...
I just replaced all my exhaust manifold studs today.

Had 6 snapped studs.. I just used a easy out tool. Ended up using a smaller drill bit that came with the packet and grinded the easy out tool down a bit so i didn't have to drill in so much.

Took about 5 hours but only used 1 easy out tool and snapped 1 drill bit.

Hey dude

ive gotta get 2 snapped studs outta the head, where did you get your easy outs from man ? were they decent quality ? and what kind of drill bit

cause i know the cheap ones tend 2 break...

Cheers Trav

It was some time ago.. I picked up the ezy out from a hardware store. Was pretty cheap from what i remember.

It comes with everything you need but to make the job easier i just used a smaller drill bit that i found laying around and then if u grind the tool down alittle you wont have to drill so far in, as the start of the tool doesn't really do anything. I also bought a 90deg attachement for the drill (bout 20 bucks) so I could actually get the drill inside the engine bay.

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