Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey sorry if this has been talked about before but jsut wondering if any one has any links to another forum that has talked about it....or if anyone has done it, is it worth it and what is the cost to upgrade to the RB25DET Neo....or should i just got for a GTT

All info will be appreciated

thanks

hey sorry if this has been talked about before but jsut wondering if any one has any links to another forum that has talked about it....or if anyone has done it, is it worth it and what is the cost to upgrade to the RB25DET Neo....or should i just got for a GTT

All info will be appreciated

thanks

Just sell it and get a GTT. They have many other improvements over and above the engine, and you really need them to make the car complete with the extra power.

Fly to Brissie and buy one of my GTT's... they're going cheap! :)

Yeh i was thinking of going up to brissie some time this yr to have a look coz adelaide aint really the best place to look for a 34. Have u got a yard up there or something??

Yeh i was thinking of going up to brissie some time this yr to have a look coz adelaide aint really the best place to look for a 34. Have u got a yard up there or something??

Surely theres plenty of R34's around Adelaide? There everywhere around the rest of the country!

Surely theres plenty of R34's around Adelaide? There everywhere around the rest of the country!

I havnt seen any for sale...actually i saw one today but i wasnt interested asking way too much for a non turbo. Plus after watching a current affair i done trust many dealerships in adelaide ( knowing the odometer is wound back and not fixing it or telling the customers) so yeh probs fly up to brissie and if i dnt find anythiing there i guess i'll import. but yeh i think i'll go for a 34 GTV as theyr exactly the same as a gtt except the engine and insurance would be a biatch if i got the turbo....bloudy insurance :wave:

Thanks for every ones input

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...