Buying A Dr30

[342Four]

hey guys

I'm kinda interested on buying a 1983 DR30 iron mask from another user on the forum (if things fall through with another buyer, and if i can afford it) and was after you's opinions

heres what the other guy had to say:

Right here we go:

- 1983 Nissan Skyline DR30

- Jap-spec (iron-mask aka look-a-like R31 front)

- 4 door manual turbo (stock boost)

- FJ20DET engine

- 175ish'000kms

- 3inch mild steel turbo-back exhaust with stainless-steel cannon and resonator

- aftermarket intercooler (a small one but does the job)

- GFB basic blow-off valve (which i think i will take off and keep for my new car)

- Rear sway bars

- cyclops remote central locking and alarm

- Pioneer mp3 cd player, 4inch speakers front, sony x-plode 6x9 rear

orright, here's the bad news (most of it i've just put up with it, but i'm sure there's attention required of it and i dont know how much it would cost to fix...)

- boot release cable seized, ie only openable with key (was quoted around $300)

- moderate to large scratch on left passenger and rear door, which has rusted a bit

- slight damage to right hand rear bumper and indicator

- some rust in various parts of car, eg front doors and boot

- some interior damage near the inside of the tyre, but i forgot what it was called

- noisy timing chain

- rear demister not working

- no wiper fluid (had to take it out when putting in intercooler)

I'm thinking that its not too bad, and some rust and no rear demister and stuff i could live with

however, what I want to know is, how expensive can it be to fix things up if they go wrong

am i able to get parts for the FJ and/or the body from nissan australia?

how common are bits at Japanese Wreckers (we have a fair few here in WA)

ive heard steering wise they can be a bit of a handful due to recirculating ball not rack and pinion

He has said he prob would sell it for a very good price which i dont want to disclose publicly (its a very good price compared to what else ive seen)

yeah, so what do you guys reckon

Edited April 2, 2007 by 342Four

[Factory 5]

Have you driven it??

If you like it, and always wanted one now is your chance...

if the price is right mate go for it.... if the engine shits itself there are plenty of options, and yes parts are getting harder to get, you just need to know where to go.

I have an old friend who used to race DR30's, and he sold everyhing, and recently found a complete Fj20DET in his back workshop, its for sale at $1500

I would buy the DR30, buy the spare engine, rebuild the spare while you get used to the steering etc on the DR, then do a transplant, you will then have a DR with a reliable and fkn solid as FJ up front, and a spare FJ you can even rebuild that too!

If you like you can PM me the price.

I saw a MINT one not too long ago, $8000 (it has been around a while)

it took the guy like a year to sel it, then the kid who did buy it drifted it for a bit then got sick of it then sold it again.... they not a drift car by the way

[Ravenoak]

Have you driven it??

If you like it, and always wanted one now is your chance...

if the price is right mate go for it.... if the engine shits itself there are plenty of options, and yes parts are getting harder to get, you just need to know where to go.

I have an old friend who used to race DR30's, and he sold everyhing, and recently found a complete Fj20DET in his back workshop, its for sale at $1500

I would buy the DR30, buy the spare engine, rebuild the spare while you get used to the steering etc on the DR, then do a transplant, you will then have a DR with a reliable and fkn solid as FJ up front, and a spare FJ you can even rebuild that too!

If you like you can PM me the price.

I saw a MINT one not too long ago, $8000 (it has been around a while)

it took the guy like a year to sel it, then the kid who did buy it drifted it for a bit then got sick of it then sold it again.... they not a drift car by the way

That blue one (if that is the one you were referring too) was not exactly mint. The interior was butchered, the fuel tank had cut up and replaced with a fuel cell. It did however have a great FJ20 and suspension setup. As a modified one goes it was not too bad but the real value in DR30's is for good original cars (perhaps with some small modifications) rather than attempted drift cars.

[rsx84]

the car is 24 years old, the better the condition the higher the price, parts are quite easy to get within reason, the MR30 was an aus sold car and most parts are interchangable, things like the iron mask front end are harder to find/ replace. there is a great fj20 fan base here and parts and good workshops are out there.

most of the problems listed are just standard problems with cars of its age, rust, damage to bumper & indocator and scratch to paint. standard things that you can go to a pannel beater to fix if your that concerned.

Edited April 3, 2007 by rsx84

[Kaido_RR]

oi Ashley!!! if you dont buy it pm my details bulk interested always wanted a dr30 but could never find one for sale in perth or australia for that matter

[GTR30]

I agree with Mag, and RSX....

keep in mind the car is very old and can't obviously be in perfect condition otherwise the price would be rather high..

if the motor doesn't blow smoke, and clunk and rattle while driving then there shouldn't be to much wrong with... with age comes simplicity, these old girls are tuff as, i drove mine head first into a 5ft grass ditch at about 50km square, mangled the front apron and shredded a tyre but thats it.. had it all measured and checked for chassis damage and it came out with a couple of scratches and thats it!! HA any other car would have fallen apart upon impact!

[342Four]

haha cool

ive actually pulled out, and michael ended up getting it

[Doctor 30]

I have an HR30 with a DR30 Iron mask front. It has an RB20DET and has the compliance plaque for it. It is very low and the body doesn't look to have rust.

Other mods are a cheap BOV (works fine but has to be taken off for RWC) supra intercooler, a rebuilt roller bearing turbo. has 16" wheels and R31 front brakes and struts (some say they are better.) It runs 14psi and easily lights up 225/50 tyres. The lower control arms have been cut and shut by and aircraft welder (Jeff Bishop from Airweld) to give a lot of camber, the car never understeers. The electrics need some attention, they all work but are a dim. It has a link ECU with hand held controller. It even has the original stereo. I can supply the original wheels too.

The drivers seat is crap but the rest of the interior is fine and I can organise some R33 GTS front seats.

If you are interested I can send pics. I am in Victoria.

[Factory 5]

PM SENT!!!!!!!!!

[GTR30]

I have an HR30 with a DR30 Iron mask front. It has an RB20DET and has the compliance plaque for it. It is very low and the body doesn't look to have rust.

Other mods are a cheap BOV (works fine but has to be taken off for RWC) supra intercooler, a rebuilt roller bearing turbo. has 16" wheels and R31 front brakes and struts (some say they are better.) It runs 14psi and easily lights up 225/50 tyres. The lower control arms have been cut and shut by and aircraft welder (Jeff Bishop from Airweld) to give a lot of camber, the car never understeers. The electrics need some attention, they all work but are a dim. It has a link ECU with hand held controller. It even has the original stereo. I can supply the original wheels too.

The drivers seat is crap but the rest of the interior is fine and I can organise some R33 GTS front seats.

If you are interested I can send pics. I am in Victoria.

I'd love to see the RB conversion and ask who did it for you..

Where in vic are you?

[Factory 5]

I'll bring it over once its regoed Dave! wanna go hunting??

[Factory 5]

I'll bring it over once its regoed Dave! wanna go hunting??

its still owned by Doc 30 for the minute too...

Edited May 21, 2007 by MAG86

[GTR30]

its still owned by Doc 30 for the minute too...

you buying it?? thought you were doing the L24et in the coupe???

did you win the lotto or something??

[Factory 5]

PM sent

[rsx84]

i'll have mine on the road in the next few months, getting new exhaust, FMIC, BRIDE front seat, bolt the rb25 turbo to the rb20 get it complied and rego'd. oh and some new 17" rims "Drift Tek Racing in black"

should drive it for a few months then sell it....

[masTers]

I bought this car off Michael, and im in the process of restoring it. Ill let you all know how it goes.

Steve

[T04GTR]

for the record thats not a dr30. its a hr30. and worth significantly less.its not got a fj20 in it.

also check behind the front struts for rust in the chassis rails. (where the brake hose is)

[works 510]

for the record thats not a dr30. its a hr30. and worth significantly less.its not got a fj20 in it.

also check behind the front struts for rust in the chassis rails. (where the brake hose is)

smart boy

Mine had heavy rust at the bottom of the strut towers and in that cavity thing between the strut tower and the firewall (like where the fuse box is but on the passenger side).

[T04GTR]

yah.. haha for the life of me i dont know why they rust out there. leaking brake hoses from factory???

[boj01]

They rust out in the front strut towers as the sheet metal is 3-4 layers thick. Water seeps into and cannot escape, therefore slowly rusting it away. It is a very common fault. Mine had it there and short of unstitching the originals and putting in new or good second hand ones, there isn't many other options to fix them!