Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time for a service on my brothers R33, what oil and sparkplugs should we use and what is the gap best set at. I was thinking of using good old Mobile 1 to replace the $2 oil the importer would have put in it. It seems to have developed a slight intermitant stutter during heavy acceleration so changing the plugs would be a good start I recon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16296-oil-and-sparkplugs-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

This must be the 1,000,000,000,000,000th time I have posted in re to spark plugs but I can't help myself.....

OK, when I bought my car, the guy I got it from put platinums (NGK platimun).... they took almost twice as long to foul as my coppers did. At 3 or 4 times the price, it doesn't seem worth it to me.

Then I put BCPR7ES, and the car felt great agin.... but they fouled VERY quickly on my car.... only mods were boost, cooler, cat back. It only took a few 1000 k's before the misfire at 5000rpm was getting worse.

Then I went for BCPR6E. Same as the 7's... felt great, but lasted a little longer before misfire got worse. However I would say the difference was negligable.

Then I went down one more to BCPR5E. These lasted me ages..... The misfire at 5000 rpm got considerably smaller than before. They worked a treat for me. So why the hell did I go back up to a heat range of 6???? Well I got a full turbo back xorst, and a SAFC, so I thought I should go 1 cooler, but it didn't help me.... :D

Overall, I have used a lot of different plugs, and my best experience was with NGK coppers: BCPR5E (oh, gapped at 0.75mm)

DennisRB30 - yeah i only got a 1psi increase, but it spikes to 10 occasionally. 9.5psi is a nice gain from 7 huh. maybe my gauge reads in the wrong place? coz the car has heaps more power after putting on the 3" pipe. my 33 is dead even with my mates 33 which has the same mods as mine but with the addition of a dsbc running 11psi on high....

-

Sorry Dennis, that wasn't me, it was Zahos. We use NGK BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 0.9 mm in the race GTST. When it starts missing I spend $18 and buy a new set. The road car gets PFR5A-11's gapped at 1 mm. I've not had any problems with this combo and they are cheap enough, so never bothered trying anything else.

Hope that helps.

Sorry for the mix up Zahos and Sydney kid. Anyway, the only ones I could find that matched any thing I was recommended were the same as BCPR5E (forgot the actual part number) but with a Y in the part number and are gapped to 1.1 mm instead of .8 The Y stands for a grooved electrode so I thought it wouldn't hurt (probably just a gymmick though). I gapped them to .9 and put them in. I found out what a prick it is to change plugs on a RB25DET!! I think the plugs that were in there were the platimum ones, the part number started with a P and the electrode tapered to a small point unlike a usual plug. They looked to be in perfect condition but were gapped to 1.1 which was probably causing the misfire not the plug itself. I was tempted to gap them down a bit and put them back, but I put the new ones in anyway because they were there.

I will post the part number of the plugs that came out and the plugs that I got when I have a look later on this week. We haven't has a chance to drive it yet since we are having a few probs with the stereo installation. But once the dash is back on, I will post the results of the new plugs. Hopefully the hesitation will be gone.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

The road car gets PFR5A-11's gapped at 1 mm.   I've not had any problems with this combo and they are cheap enough, so never bothered trying anything else.

Gapped at 1mm??? Gee thats pretty small....

Is that just a typo? If not, why such a small gap?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...