Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jesus, there's some real BS being posted in this thread. Brad - do a search for this topic, its been covered a million times before by more knowledgable people :|

Yeah i tried that but could not find anything overly helpful.

I think i understand what makes more sense and what i need to do.

Thanks all for your info and thoughts.

Would prefer this didnt turn into a "who knows more thread" as we all know how they end up.

Cheers

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Tech...w_off_valve.htm

this link will help~~ it's info is accurate...the spring in your BOV is probably too soft which opens up too readily under the slightest pressure.

Vacuum from the plenum "sucks" the spring up opening the valve if your spring is too soft a lot of air is vented hence the stalling.

The AFM reads off a certain amount of air going into the engine and inject the specific quantity of fuel. However when the BOV vents off too much air there won't be enough air for combustion. that's when it stalls.

Depending on your BOV model, there's should be some sort of "dial" to adjust the spring...otherwise get a new spring? or BOV?

while it is true that BOV is usually better used in MAP system since MAP sensor sits after the BOV, if adjusted correctly (does not vents too much air) it should also be able to be used in AFM system.

Just to add my 2c. . .

My R33, manual, had a Turbosmart Vee port on it when I got it. stalled at idle, popped and banged pretty bad, and was quite sluggish on gear changes.

Went to the Turbosmart website and got instructions to adjust it correctly. still not great. . .

Put a stocker back on, much better, no stalling, smoother idle, faster on changes with less BANG. . . definately runs better all the time

Also with a FMIC, Aluminium piping and a K&N Pod the stocker is very noisy anyways. . .

Want to buy a Vee port? :D

Cheers

I have a GFB Bovus Maximus... it didn't stall it just pop twiced @ higher revz... Blocked off the return pipe for the plumback and it reduced it... Rarely stalls and stalled once during a really cold morning.. it was wierd. My car was idling pretty higher than usual for a while about 1k to 800rpm then after a while it dropped to 650rpm... this is with the Stock ECU.

I don't know if there is any Perfomance benefits.. but i am hearing noises i haven't heard b4 like the Pod which sounds like it's fluttering.. @ very Low Rev changes...

Gettn PowerFC Tuned very soon.. should sort out my Big Bang Issue when i'm Givin it some :D

-SeSaR

Edited by Black_CSR
  • 4 weeks later...

LOL i agree lots of BS here!!!

:)

well my 5c

ermm from what i heard / raced.. lol BOV dont offer no proformance... so only change if ur running more then 14PSI? stock BOV leaks.

anyways u get a flutter noise through ur POD...

oh and yeah i raced many guyz wif ato BOV, and yeah they seem to l00se a bit of power/torque i can power n pull past em.

LAWL does BOV do damage to ya engine???

and after all AFM does count that air your car PSTTTTT out.. so thats why u get rough idles :S

Just to add my 2c. . .

My R33, manual, had a Turbosmart Vee port on it when I got it. stalled at idle, popped and banged pretty bad, and was quite sluggish on gear changes.

Went to the Turbosmart website and got instructions to adjust it correctly. still not great. . .

Put a stocker back on, much better, no stalling, smoother idle, faster on changes with less BANG. . . definately runs better all the time

Also with a FMIC, Aluminium piping and a K&N Pod the stocker is very noisy anyways. . .

Want to buy a Vee port? :action-smiley-069:

Cheers

I have the vee port on mine and it has no issues at all...popping or stalling.

I could be interested in buying it as the one i have is shall we say "at the lower end of the quality scale" lol

Check to see if your current atmo bov has a spring tension adjuster on it...and wind it in. I had a blitz on my S15 that would do the exact same thing...stall when pulling up to lights, or pushing in the clutch when driving along. Wound the tensioner in and it solved all the problems. The only problem from the atmo bov was overfueling.

I also have Turbosmart Veeport. Have used it on a B6 Mazda turbo motor, a RB20, a 1JZ and a RB25 and had no dramas with stalling at all. excellent blow off valve and not the annoying PSHHHHHHHH when driving around town, unless you feed lotsa boost through it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...