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Problems With Car After Bolting On New Turbo

jimbo88

By jimbo88,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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jimbo88 Apprentice

jimbo88

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i bought a garret 2530 turbo the other day. my mates and i installed it properly and connected everything back up. coolant and oil lines, vacuum lines. cooler piping

when we finished and started up the car. everything seemed ok. then we went for a drive i found that i had lost power. after a few minutes of normal driving the temp gauge started climbing a bit too high so we shut it off just in case it over heated.

we then left if for the night and got my mate around who is a mechanic and he topped up the coolant while the car was running. when it was full the coolant started overflowing with little bubbles and sort of went a milky colour. and i dont really want to drive the car while it is like this.

does any one have any idea what is happening or has happened. any help would be appreciated

thanks

R33LIN Collaborator

R33LIN

Posted
Posted (edited)
is it milky or brown???? and also when you disconnected and reconnected the coolant hoses did you bleed the system properly????

Hey mate,

sorry for the noobie question but how do you properly bleed the coolant system?

and what are the negative repercussions from not properly bleeding it in.

hope you can help!

cheers

Edited by R33LIN
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey mate,

sorry for the noobie question but how do you properly bleed the coolant system?

and what are the negative repercussions from not properly bleeding it in.

hope you can help!

cheers

at the front of the plenum on the drivers side of the motor there is a little 10mm bolt. if you undo this while the engine is running it will bleed the system. it is best to do this while the engine is cold, as it does spurt a bit of water out with the bubbles.

if you don't do it properly you can end up with air pockets, which will be hotter than the coolant. too hot= bad.

Edited by mad082
mattymagoo22 Community Regular

mattymagoo22

Posted
Posted

if you're bleeding a cooling system you need to have the heater on so that the coolant can flow through your heater core, and also need a funnel/anything that you can stick in the radiator where the fill point is that wont leak eg a bottle with bottom cut off taped around the threads so you can jam it in the radiator fill point. remove the 10mm bolt on plenum top up cooling system up until coolant starts to come out hole where bolt was, put bolt in about a half a turn start engine and let it idle until warm removing screw from time to time while topping up level in funnel. when top hose and bottom hose are around the same temp (bottom hose will always be colder from radiator doing its job) remove funnel put cap on and tighten bolt and keep and eye on it for next couple of days (overflow bottle level).

this should ensure there is no air in the system, if in doubt take it to a shop before you kill your motor.

cheers matt.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

I reckon that if you don't even know how to bleed the coolant system, that's most likely your problem.

When you change the turbo, you get about 4-4.5 L out of that water banjo even after you've drained teh radiator.

If you just top the radiator thinking it's all full, you'll be about 4-4.5L short.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The R32's have 2 bleed points.

Its VERY important you bleed both, if your heater core is full of air that will be pushed in to the head and VERY quickly overheat the car possibly blowing a headgasket.

There is a T piece int he top heater core hose that is located behind the inlet cam cover. However, this usually only requires bleeding if you have dropped all your coolant for a flush. There's no need to turn the heater on when bleeding as the R32's constantly flow coolant through their heater cores unlike some other cars.

So... 1.25ltr coke bottle, chop the bottom off, grab some rubber hose that fits in to the radiator neck and shove the coke bottle in to that so its all sealed, fill up the system and keep the water level in the coke bottle higher than the plenum.

Crack the bleed nipple on the plenum and bleed out the air, then remove the plug on the t-piece and bleed the air from the heater core.

Start the car and bring it up to temp, again *carefully* crack the bleed nipple and bleed out the air. Then do the same for the heater core bleeder.

I have a bit of fuel hose connected to my heatercore tpiece bleeder as to make life easy.

Go for a drive and it should be all sweet.

R32's should always run at ~1/2 on the temp guage, half is ~70degree's to 109degree's.

If not check your thermostat is working correctly and failing that replace the temp sender.

The temp sender is what partially failed in mine. When it failed temps were ~1/4 on the guage.

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