Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know its not really a mod but more a upkeeping thing however this colour polish which I bought to cover up chips in my paint is awesome!

I use Maguairs gear normally and its the best but I decided to use this colour polish today to clear up a few scratches .. Worked a treat when from nice dead white scratch to nice low white/grey/black colour and if I used the scratch chipstik it disappears ..

I used the chipstik to cover up deep chips in the paint as I park outside and rust is not kewl!

Decided to polish the boot, hood and roof and it removed the water marks aloooooot better than maguires gear i.e TEK WAX level stuff! (known as one of the best)

Thought id pass on the experience as ive read several people say its crap .. the chip stik lasts a few washes etc .. Its not true its been about 20 washes since ive applied it and there is no chance it is going to come off in the next 20 by the look of it!

Remember if your appling over rust scratch off the rust with a knife .. (id suggest taping the surrounding area first)

So if you got scratches (from keys or whatever) go get some now .. wish I would have used it sooner (ive had it bluddy 3 months)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163068-turtle-colour-polish-its-awesome/
Share on other sites

hmmm becareful we sell this stuff and it aint great can stain paint.

remmeber the TEK WAX is a wax not a polish so it is not designed to remove water marks.

Edited by URAS

Stain paint you say .. interesting .. Dont think ill have a problem my cars black ..

However tek wax has the ability remove water marks according to what you can use it for ..

While im here .. should I tek wax over the polish?

Turtle Wax is NOT better than Meguiars, and the coloured polish is an absolute last resort for very old and tired/faded paint.

It sounds like you need to do some more research into exactly which products you are using to do what job.

Personally I use Auto Glym cream polish and Meguairs wax and have done so on my last 5 cars to keep the paintwork at a show quality standard.

I've tried this stuff ... and god dammit it's awful. The application of the stick is only a temporary measure... the residue you leave behind filling in the scratches comes off eventually. And the colour polish makes your paint work so dull. I spent about an hour removing the shit off my car with wax and grease remover... never using that stuff again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...