Wheel Alignment For R32 Gts-t

[GTS-T MAD]

hi everyone,

does anyone know the standard specs for a WHEEL ALIGNMENT on a R32 gts-t? i have access to a 4 post hoist and wheel aligner to sort out the uneven wear on my tyres(sux) but not sure of whats specs i should be aiming for. any help appreciated. thanx guys

[Sydneykid]

The suggested road alignment settings as follows;

Front Camber = 1.00 negative

Front Caster = 7.00 degree positive (basically as much as you can get, slightly more on the LHS as it helps with the drift to the gutter)

Front Toe = Zero

Rear Camber -0.5 to 075 degrees negative

Rear Toe = 2.00 mm in on each side

Cheers

[yogi000]

hey sydneykid,

for a r32 gtst that see's the track 5 times a year and has whiteline adjustable caster/camber, what do you recommend?

Thanks in advance

[Sydneykid]

hey sydneykid,

for a r32 gtst that see's the track 5 times a year and has whiteline adjustable caster/camber, what do you recommend?

Thanks in advance

You have a decision to make, do you want to compromise the road tyre wear or the handling on the circuit?

If you want to sacrifice the handling on the circuit in order to improve the road tyre wear, then the above are the settings for you.

If you want to sacrifice the road tyre wear in order to improve the handling on the circuit , then the suggested road alignment settings are as follows;

Front Camber = 2.5 to 4.0 negative

Front Caster = 7.00 degree positive (basically as much as you can get)

Front Toe = Zero

Rear Camber -1.5 to 2.0 degrees negative

Rear Toe = 2.0 mm in on each side

The best recommendation (no compromise) is to get your wheel aligner to show you how to adjust camber, and then mark the adjusters for the 2 settings. That way you can do it yourself at the track, while you have the car jacked up to put the R tyres on and change the stabiliser bar settings.

Cheers

[Simon-S14]

is there any reason why you dont run a mm or few toe out on the front gary?

[yogi000]

are the camber settings possible with whiteline kits?

caster is already at the max i believe

thanks again.

[salad]

You need 2 camber kits, adjustment in both sides of the upper arms.

[yogi000]

thanks for the info

i've got an extra kit, so i might throw it in

[GTS-T MAD]

The suggested road alignment settings as follows;

Front Camber = 1.00 negative

Front Caster = 7.00 degree positive (basically as much as you can get, slightly more on the LHS as it helps with the drift to the gutter)

Front Toe = Zero

Rear Camber -0.5 to 075 degrees negative

Rear Toe = 2.00 mm in on each side

Cheers

thanx sydneykid you rock

[Cubes]

hrmmm that goes against my most recent wheel alignment sheet.

Front:

Castor L - +6 degree's 14'

Castor R - +5 degree's 35'

Camber L - -0 degree's 23'

Camber R - +0 degree's 18'

(inner and outer adjustable, currently max'd out which is the way I put them in for the drive to the wheelaligners, there appears to be a heap of adjustment in there as when fitted to max neg camber it looked like it had excessive track look neg camber)

Toe L - -0 degree's 15'

Toe R - +0 degree's 26'

Rear:

Camber L - -0 degree's 19'

Camber R - +0 degree's 14'

Toe L - +0 degree's 19'

Toe R - +0 degree's 14'

---------------

It drives straight, doesn't tramline, solid straight braking and has excellent turn in compared to before doing the bushes where the castor was completely buggered.

I did the bushes in stages and found the tramlining was caused by the shagged castor bushes.

Replacing the upper control arm bushes did nothing noticable apart from make it adjustable.

The arse end does feel a little light and there is a strange wobble from the rear when putting the power down in third gear ~70-80km/h on left hand turns. It almost feels like the arse end sits down and steers the car in to the corner a little more.

I suspect I may have a shagged rear rack rod end as subframe bushes have been replaced and everything else is in great nick, shocks are still standard so they are probably not helping

Prior the front end had around 2degree neg camber and it did feel noticably better mid corner. I might take it for another wheel align and push SK's recommend 1degree neg in to it and sort the large almost 1 degree castor difference?

[Gts-t]

is there any reason why you dont run a mm or few toe out on the front gary?

Yeah i run 1mm out each side on the front and zero toe on the rear. Is this slowing the car down on the track?

thanks SK

[salad]

Cubes: Not sure if you know this or not, but a lot of people dont. Those wheel alignment sheets are in degrees and minutes, so the second number only goes up to 60. So you have 41' (~0.67deg) more on the left, which isn't too bad, used to stop the car drifting towards the kerb due to the camber of the road.

I'd be more concerned that he's given you some positive camber both front and rear! The toes arent very even either, bit over 1mm on the front in and 4mm on the rear in (total), so the values aren't too bad, could just be a bit more even, not a huge problem though. Is your steering wheel straight?

I would want the cambers evened up to Gary's specs or more. I run 1.5deg on the street and get pretty even tyre wear. Would also get them to max out your castor adjustment, if you've got the adjustment there, you may aswell use it.

Where did you get that done (PM me if you want) because it doesn't look the wheel aligner had any idea what he was doing...

Edited April 6, 2007 by salad

[Cubes]

Yep your right it is in degree's and minutes.

It does track pretty straight on cambered roads.

Its really quite difficult as I remember when I first bought the car with good bushes/shockers etc it felt more composed and stable through high speed corners and had much better turnin less understeer than my previous VS 5ltr Commodore that had a full whiteline/bilstein kit including adj. sway bars with riser kit & rear camber kit etc.

Now it feels heaps better than when the bushes were stuffed but still feels a tad nervous through highspeed corners. Almost as if the arse end is too light.

I should also add.. The cars still at std height, I try to avoid attention. I really want to firm it up in the spring department but have yet to find any one that does std or at least legal height (360mm minimum) springs.

A tad offtopic but have you had any shagged rear rod ends salad? Do they do what I am experiencing with the wobble/twitch when getting on the throttle out of a 2nd-3rd gear corner? It doesn't appear to do it on a right hand bend.

[salad]

Nah, I've been a bit lucky I guess, havn't had any buggered rack ends, or tie rods yet. But it's only a matter of time as I've seen from other people's track cars. Does sound like a buggered rack end would be your problem though.

[Simon-S14]

easy was to tell is to jack up the rear of the car and grab the rear wheel and try and move it side to side. My cefiro managed to distroy the rear rack ends on both sides at a winton track day, i could move each wheel 5mm or so, needless to say handling was very much affected.

[Cubes]

Simon,

Being easter break and everyones shut....

What are new rod ends worth? s/h or new?

Thanks buddy.

[Simon-S14]

if you want to upgrade and CBF changing the whole subframe, apparently R33 ones fit, and are stronger, however i have not done this yet so i cannot vouch for it.

2nd hand i paid 20 bucks pair from Z imports. New i would say 40 each?

My r32 is showing signs of wear in that area now... so i might look into the r33 option./

[Nathan_G1]

learning some pretty decent specs and opinions based on how people wish to allign there cars.......