Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Blue Slip.. Am I Allowed To Drive Car To Inspection Station?


Recommended Posts

well i'm going to get a blue slip this arvo actually and I was thinking of using plates that read: "kiss me, I'm irish". I will let you guys know how it goes.

By the way, who ever said get an unreg vehicle permit, i was going to get one of these a while ago, and they told me you need a blue slip to get one, and pay for CTP for the time of the journey

well having drive to get a blue slip today. I drove with no number plates, and no letter of intent. I drove from my house to the weighbridge, to the workshop, to the insurer, to the RTA and drove past a total of 5 police cars! none of them had anything to say about it.

good news is the car is now registered :)

  wraith_skyline said:
By the way, who ever said get an unreg vehicle permit, i was going to get one of these a while ago, and they told me you need a blue slip to get one, and pay for CTP for the time of the journey

Yes you have to pay CTP it's about 20 - 35 dollars on top of the UVP.

Hey Beer Baron. Just curious did you get hit with any surprises from the mechanic inspection? Is yours imported with 15 year rule (i.e mod platted)? I hear they are quite strict down there in Syd. Also what modifications have u got on urs?

How much did you end up paying for Blue slip, and green slip?

Just trying to get a rough idea as I'll be coming down in 2 months, and wondering what kind of costs I may be hit with bringing 'her' down to comply and register.

p.s You don't have a soft copy of the mech report by any chance do u - so i can look through the tests they do.

Edited by Draen

I've never been hit with any 'surpirses' at a blue slip inspection. this car was a sevs import, but it doesn't matter blue slip is the same for any car. blue slip price is pretty set. around $120. green slip price varies on your age, history, where you live etc. so mine is not really relevant to you.

Someone mentioned that if its a certain type of Import you need further adr testing? I dont remember the exact type he mentioned though. There was: 15 year old, personal import...

$120 - this is pretty much like a racq rwc check i assume? Would they say anything about a fmic, pod (no box) - does this need to be attached to the car, boost controller?

Edited by Andyn

depends on the inpsector mate. i will say their primary concern is that the car is not stolen, and that it's roadworthy. i don't know of any import that requires 'further ADR testing'. every car in nsw import or not goes through exactly the same registgration process.

dont u just need an appointment with a blue slip joint and then just drive there?

i drove around sydney with no number plates on, jap writing on my windscreen, covered in thick dust, uncomplianced and unrego'd. i was told if a cop pulls me over, just tell them im heading to the compliance/blueslip shop.

When I had my 180, I had to get it blue slipped but I was getting mixed information from everyone. So as a result I rang up the RTA and rang up my local cop shop.

As per RTA: I can drive as long as it’s to the closest blue slip center. In other works, there is a blue slip workshop about 2km from you and another 5km. You know for a fact that the workshop which is 5km away will give you a blue slip without any problems. You can only go to the workshop which is 2km away…..makes sense?

As per Local Cop Shop: I was basically told the same thing as RTA. The cop even joked about putting up TRAFFIC plates….which is a big no no. He said I did not need any sort of document stating I was going for a blue slip.

Oh and as for the 180, ended up getting towed because I knew I couldnt get it blue slipped anywhere else expect for the place where I usually go :P

Edited by MAYHEM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.
    • From the OP's description, sounds to me like the TCU is in 'limp home' mode --- that is, no actuation power to shift solenoids, and the EPC valve is shut (full line pressure). This effectively sticks the box in 3rd gear, with as much line pressure as possible, to try hold the high clutch clamped shut....and so you get woeful acceleration and don't feel any shifts (because they're not happening). If you don't have Consult or some other scanner to interrogate the TCU itself, you can test with a multimeter to see if it's in limp home mode....ie; stick it in D with engine at idle (hold vehicle with hand/foot brake), and measure the voltage at the TCU feeding shift solenoids A & B -- both should be ON (battery voltage). If they are energized at the TCU, you can unplug the harness from the TCU, and check resistance down through the wiring to the solenoids themselves -- you should see about 20ohms on each coil --- if you do, you can presume the wiring to shift solenoids is OK -- if both measure open circuit, you have to check intermediate connectors in the loom down to the gearbox (and the gearbox connector itself), and check the shift solenoid resistance at the gearbox connector itself --- if the shift solenoids test open circuit here, problem is in the box (ether the solenoids or wiring to them is bad). If you get no voltage at TCU connector for the shift solenoids (and the solenoids/wiring test OK), check powers/grounds to the TCU itself --- if they're ok, it suggests the TCU is the culprit (and you'd need to interrogate it if possible, to find out why it's behaving badly)... 
    • Hey mate give Autotechnica a go, I recently got some Comfort PUs and rails from them, they're comfy and look great highly recommended! https://www.autotecnica.com.au/part-finder/nissan/skyline/r32/
    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
    • Verify it's going into each of the 4 gears in normal acceleration, make sure the torque converter locks up over ~65-70 kph or so at low throttle opening. If you ease into the throttle at those speeds eventually you should get a "gear" between 3rd unlocked and 4th locked. It should downshift eventually if you floor it at 65 kph too. Get some Matic D ATF and drain the pan, check for signs of sadness in fluid and drain plug magnet. Top off to the correct level afterwards. If the transmission is worth saving you can drop the pan on a second drain and change the filter while you're at it. These are not complicated transmissions, at least compared to modern stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...