Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the best value and what do they cost? Next question where is the best place to buy them?

Also am going to need to run 10mm spacers with my new wheels. So will need spacers, i assume they must be bolt on. So is a there a good place for longer wheel studs or dont i need them for the bolt on type?

Bolt on type dont need longer studs (you might even have to cut them shorter if your wheel doesn't have the recesses in the back), but I dont think they make 10mm bolt ons, not enough meat to hold the studs. The thinnest I've seen is 15mm with 20mm being much more common. Just Jap sell the 15mm ones and they are hub centric which is helpful :D

Edited by salad

Troy,

I was chasing some hub centric bolt-on 10mm spacers for my gtst. Unfortunately 10mm is too thin for the bolts to be sunk into the spacer and are therefore unavail. The thinest bolt-on spacer I could find was a 15mm one from Kudos MS on these forums.

As for the wheel nuts....I'm using a set of Rays Daytona which are a hollow type (can see how much thread is being used) and have a rotating ring at the part that meets the rims which stops any damage being done to the rim if you over torque the nuts.

Cheers

So if i have a +40 wheel and need it to be +30 your telling me im stuffed?

For a bolt on spacer I'm afraid so.....you can get 10mm dodgy plate spacers though

Will the extra 5mm (ie 15mm bolt on type) really make a difference?

basically for 10mm spacer your only option is slip on. there are 2 types. the cheap arse ones, and the nice alloy ones that have an extra hub lip on them. either one is 'ok' but obviously one type is better! for 10mm spacers, I'd get 10mm longer studs too (well nismo make ones that are either 8mm longer, or 18mm longer). If you go bolt on you wont need new studs but you will almost certainly have to cut down your old ones which means they wont be any good if you want to take the spacers off again. but of course 15mm is the smallest bolt on spacer around. the nicest ones I've seen are the rays daytona ones. will have a look in the rays catalogue when i get home.

oh, and the daytona nuts are the shiznit! plus from memory they are 17mm hex which is handy if you have narrow 'holes' in your wheels which can make 19mm nuts a biatch.

I've got the other version of the Ray's nuts, but the extended long version so I could fit them over long studs if need be (ie taking spacers off). They're nice :D

Paid $200 for them new, but from a 'private' seller who had a few sets.

post-8405-1175665704.jpg

NISMO sells the 7-sided extended long version Lock-nuts

I bought a set when I was in their OMORI factory, basically all 20 of them are 7-sided lock nuts that would fit long studs.

They also have the racing version which has hollow centres.

hey hey i have some killer ones that just landed fully forged out of the same factory as the jap majors but half the price. not branded and shipped around the globe :(

what color? i think i have a sample silver set or black? here somewhere and also a whole lot of spare trust ones if you want the name on them :thumbsup:.

Edited by URAS
Troy,

I was chasing some hub centric bolt-on 10mm spacers for my gtst. Unfortunately 10mm is too thin for the bolts to be sunk into the spacer and are therefore unavail. The thinest bolt-on spacer I could find was a 15mm one from Kudos MS on these forums.

As for the wheel nuts....I'm using a set of Rays Daytona which are a hollow type (can see how much thread is being used) and have a rotating ring at the part that meets the rims which stops any damage being done to the rim if you over torque the nuts.

Cheers

try gallop in nunawading, terracotta drive right next door to us. he has all the diff spacers and supplies most of the traders and wheel shops.

oh, and the daytona nuts are the shiznit! plus from memory they are 17mm hex which is handy if you have narrow 'holes' in your wheels which can make 19mm nuts a biatch.

thankyou i have been looking for some nuts! which would fit my lm gt rims :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
    • Besides packing it, you can also fill your pump through the oil filter inlet port. After cranking for what felt like an eternity without pressure, i fed a tube in through there and filled it with oil. Cranked for a few seconds after that and had pressure. 
    • That's exactly what I told myself. I'm happy it came out. 
    • My bet is there's a fuse somewhere you blew that feeds power to the ECU. Or you've bumped something out behind the dash board.
    • Does anyone know what the centreline should be for the vct intake cam? On my cam spec card it just says VARI and doesn’t actually tell me what the centreline should be. I had to adjust my exhaust cam gear by about 5 degrees advanced so I’m guessing I would have to adjust my intake as well? Current intake centreline is 119 deg. Iv already asked kelford and they won’t respond, It’s the 246-A 262 cams.  thanks for the help guys 
×
×
  • Create New...