Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Did a search, nothing i was looking for.

Was wondering how do you guys mount your PFCs??

Theres a bracket to bolt up the standard ecu, but the pfc doesn't have the screw holes for the bracket to bolt up to.

so...yea how do you guys do it? cable ties? duct tape?

Just trying to save myself 50bux....

much appreciated

Edited by mle808
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163236-installing-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Did a search, nothing i was looking for.

Was wondering how do you guys mount your PFCs??

Theres a bracket to bolt up the standard ecu, but the pfc doesn't have the screw holes for the bracket to bolt up to.

so...yea how do you guys do it? cable ties? duct tape?

Just trying to save myself 50bux....

much appreciated

I just used the bottom part of the bracket from the old ECU and then used the supplied velcro (about 3 big bits) to stick it to that. Works well, seems secure enough.

Sand back the purtruding bolt washer, so that the pfc can be put on the bracket inside on the original bracket then use double sided tape to put the ecu on. Bolt up bracket as normal.

If that makes any sense.. Basically both parts of the original bracket can be used.

Sand back the purtruding bolt washer, so that the pfc can be put on the bracket inside on the original bracket then use double sided tape to put the ecu on. Bolt up bracket as normal.

If that makes any sense.. Basically both parts of the original bracket can be used.

was about to unbolt the brackets assembly...until something else hit me...

what about the controller cable? did you guys drill a small hole for it on the top bracket?

....i don't have anything here since i moved house...

if thats the case then guess will just pay the 50 bux...

was more worried about time spent tuning it than the 50 as the place is only going to open for 3 hours on saturday.

If the tuner installs it + tune...do you guys think it can all be done well in 3 hours time?

mine sat on the passenger floor for ages

then it just got sort of tucked into place

but use the velcro thats supplied dont be povo like us

3 hours is ok for basic tune , depends what your mods are . if its mainly stock to clean up afrs should be ok

Edited by arkon
mine sat on the passenger floor for ages

then it just got sort of tucked into place

but use the velcro thats supplied dont be povo like us

3 hours is ok for basic tune , depends what your mods are . if its mainly stock to clean up afrs should be ok

ok sweet...still...i don't see how it'll fit without drilling holes in the top bracket for the commander cable

if time runs out i might just passenger floor it too...

haha..that is povo tho...

i got mine 2nd hand (so no velcro) just before the prices rocketed thru...wtf hey? i saw a 2nd hand on ebay going for 1400.....

its like 100% profit tax free... but love for powerfc overcame monetry gains.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...