Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Instrumentation Cluster

NISMO_R33_GTS_T

By NISMO_R33_GTS_T,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

NISMO_R33_GTS_T Apprentice

NISMO_R33_GTS_T

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

After months of intermittent flickering/bouncing of my tacho needle....its seems as though my tacho has finally had enough and wont run beyond 2000rpm anymore!

I have read the DIY guide by 'pushead' on removing the cluster and it seems to be fair easy....btw...nice guide (alot of detail)....cheers :P

I still have a few questions though -

1) The guide finishes with the cluster coming out of the dash, but still connected....what happens next? Are the wires running to the cluster - soldered? OR do they use connectors?

2) When replacing the cluster, does the new cluster need calibration? How do u go about this calibration proceedure?

3) Does anyone know where i can buy a 'new' cluster? OR can u only buy '2nd hand' ones?

4) Do you know of any good instrumentation experts where i can get the work done? How much roughly am i looking at? (Im not sure if i will do the work myself or not? Depends on how much stuffing around is involved and how cheap it is to simply get someone to do it for me.)

Cheers, :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163319-r33-instrumentation-cluster/
Share on other sites
R33_ACT Community Regular

R33_ACT

Posted
Posted

1. Theres 3 plugs on the back of the cluster just unplug them and out it comes

2. Should'nt have to recalibrate any thing...would be cheaper just to replace tacho

3. Look in for sale section

4. Premier instruments or somone like that maybe look in the yellow pages

i would pull the cluster out its very easy and check that the needle shaft as not poped out before buying a new cluster or tacho

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

If you pull the cluster apart its possible to find whats wrong with it.

There could be a few 'dry' connections where the female connector is connected to the circuit board. you can tell this by looking at them and if the solder looks as if it has been broken.

This happened a to my pulsar when I had it. Just had re-solder those connections and bob's your aunty.

You might have a different problem though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • MBS206
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By MBS206 · Posted

      January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
×
×
  • Create New...