Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how fare out is the water line??? also have you tried to fit the water line before bolting the turbo to the manifold, sounds strange but it was the only way i could get the stock rb25 turbo on my rb20 without modifing water lines

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ive installed a few of these on a few members cars.

the trick i use is to not bolt the turbo on at all, get all the water lines on first. i loosen the dump/front pipe off its bracket under the car so i have movement and bolt it up to that loosely to that with 2 bolts as well as have it sitting on the oil return to keep it stable. it makes it a tiny bit stiffer to move into place but it saves at least 30-45mins of stuffing around with the bolts.

if a banjo fitting wont line up, use a long flat head screw driver to adjust it a bit by sticking it through the middle and levering it into shape.

Save yourself the trouble go braided lines and speedflow fittings this will save you a hell of a trouble if you plan on upgrading in near future, as well as it would be safe to loosen the bolts to move the housings around just make sure you do them up to the right tightness and oh if your putting the turbo on atleast save yourself the trouble mount the lines on the turbo first it will be easier to bolt it back up after. Good luck with it. Oh and one thing if you have doubt in warranty voidence consult aaron first about the issues, if you still have doubt get a professional to do it for you!

Oh and one last thing i dont take responsibility if you stuff something up in the process if you follow the above comment :wave:

Have a good easter

A

Take it to a mechanic. I am all for DIY, but this sort of stuff shouldnt be causing you headaches. Its all basic stuff. Take it to a professional. It will only be 3-4hrs labour, plus some coolant and oil.

Who are you going to use to tune the car? Just take it to them

Hate to see you with a blown turbo in 2 weeks time

sounds to me like you should be getting someone who has a clue to install it

if i didnt know what i was doing, i certainly woudlnt be risking it to save a few piddly dollars

my car means too much to me to do that

Hey matey, care to elaborate more on what the issue was, and how you fixed it (for when mine comes).

I've done many turbos before, just wondering specifically in relation to the slide one.

did you have to rotate the housings? etc etc - or what was the problem - did you have the problem with the water line that the guys were talking about etc.

All I did was unbolt all close supports to the waterlines and gently bent them into place. To get any flutter you have to block off the BOV. It is noticeably louder on the induction side, no difference to the exhaust note. My experiences with the slide turbo anyway.

On a stockish PFC map the turbo is dreadfully laggy (obviously) but still hits boost hard. defiantly needs a tune ASAP.

my car isnt tuned to this new setup. it is laggy but its not tuned, boost comes on at 2800. i havent pushed it past 3,500rpm cause its not tuned. in order to put it on we had to adjust/rotated the front and rear housings. we had to do this 6 times to get it spot on. the water lines closest to the strut tower was a problem so i had to do up all the lines first then put the turbz on the manifold last. the turbo sounds very nice regardless. when something isnt standard its difficult to "fit straight in" in most cases.

im just happy my car is back on the road :sick: the flutter is very quick and not very loud, but you can hear it nicely. (grins)As soon as i hit over 3500 rpm the bov works normal and gives me the psssh noise. as i said, just happy to have my car back :D

Edited by R33GOD
To get any flutter you have to block off the BOV. It is noticeably louder on the induction side, no difference to the exhaust note. My experiences with the slide turbo anyway.

:D:/ and :no:

With my hi-flow and HKS GT-RS, i always got flutter under 4000rpm, and i hated it, no matter what i did to get rid of it, it wouldn't go away.

Also my induction got alot quieter with the turbo change (i put it down to the std turbo being very restrictive) and the exhaust note got deeper in my car and my mate's car.

i didnt purchase the max over size hiflow and im finding it quite good. its abit laggy due to the car not being tuned. plus my gain was turned right down, running stock boost at the moment. oh yea..did i mention it flutters MAD!!!! LOL.

Al, correct me if i'm wrong, but i remember seeing before that you absolutely hated your vg30 highflow and sold it off for cheap wasn't it. I think you found it very laggy?
Didn't "hate" it just was disappointed with its lag and how it came on boost, also had compressor surge (Hated the flutter).

After buying the HKS GT-RS, the lag wasn't that much better (but still a little improvement), so I started looking at other things that could cause the issue, and I found my "hi-flowed" custom made exhaust to be a big part of the issue. Below is a graph of a comparison between the custom exhaust and an Apexi 3.5" exhaust.

post-1811-1175912845.jpg post-1811-1175912861.jpg

The result was absolutely GREAT!!

I was then about to replace my "truck core" fmic, which I had in the car for the past 6yrs, thinking that; if a change in an exhaust could make such a difference, the same principal would apply to a sub-standard fmic. But months later, b4 doing the test/comparison, I lost compression on cyl 3 at a track day. So now I am building up a completely new engine with new turbo/ fmic/etc; this will void any comparison with the previous setup.

Apart from the compressor surge (flutter while accelerating), I now realise that the rb25 hi-flow, with the VG30 ext housing, was a good turbo and made heaps of power: 270rwkw @ 16psi (R33 rb25 engine had Tomei cams and head porting). The turbo is now in a R34 with a completely std Neo engine, the guy uses the same mechanic as I do, and I advised him of the flutter/surge b4 purchase. He absolutely loves the flutter, both off and on throttle (as he blocked the bov), and the car is making 265rwkw @ 15psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't say I've had a bad experience with one on my car, then again it only gets washed once or twice a year... The wheels on the other hand, get a good spray often due to my shitty dusty pads.
    • @MBS206 thats pretty neat and tidy to me!  I'll get a photo of mine when I'm out there next. It might require multiple photos to understand the scale of the atrocities though... In total I have 4 sheds of varying sizes and layouts. Main shed is 14x8, second shed is 3x8, third shed is 11x2.5, fourth shed is around 6x4.  All are pretty much full.   The main goal of my cleaning tsunami is to make the main shed predominantly car and motorbikes only. Second shed is my metal fab room (2 x bench grinders, drill press, bench belt sander, metal band saw, scrap metal storage and some of my garden tools.  3rd shed is more bigger garden stuff, storage for engine crane, jack stands, concrete grinder, concrete mixer, air compressor lives there, and it now has two 2mx2m pallet racking shelves with itemised boxes holding building stuff, electrical stuff, plumbing stuff, etc, etc.  The 4th shed is Ryobi electric ride on mower, mini boom sprayer, ancient Kubota tractor, more garden stuff!  I have got a lot of shit....  Then there's the pool house (8mx4m) and the pool pump shed (4mx4m).  I built all of the sheds over the 11 years we've been here.  The main shed was a Ranbuild kit, the rest are all custom made to fit the areas available. Building the main shed taught me a LOT as I had no idea about building anything prior to that!  I've still got one more in me. It will be my man cave which I poured the extra concrete for way back when I poured the concrete for the main shed. The idea is the Skyline will be a centre piece of the main cave once (if...) it's finished.  I told my now 14 year old son yesterday that I will 100% drive him to his year 10 formal in 2 years. Still a long way off but at least I now have a date to work towards! 🤣
    • Modern oils are amazing. Add tyres to that as well.
    • Probably a smart choice to buy one vs build, purely for the motivation part as you said! Imagine the metal dust everywhere from grinding all the steel to build one. Ha ha ha!   Also, post a photo of your garage.   Mine is below, this is where I've been cleaning and have already half filled a caged 6*4 trailer. And this is after my cleaning expedition mentioned previously... The middle normally has a car in it, but I'm dumping things in the middle as I sort through them. And poor skyline was dusty and has had the lightest few drops of rain and now it looks atrocious and needs to be dragged back out and washed thoroughly! And yes to the right is technically another bay, you really can only see 2 bays out of 3 in this picture.  
    • It's more like on average the things I see a lot of things going wrong. Yes, usually the people who reach out are the ones who are having problems but on average it feels like mechanics and tuners here aren't really competent. I swing between thinking my standards are just way too high and wondering whether people really are just this dumb. I just had the strangest 10+ reply argument on a Facebook group over someone insisting that the factory R34 GTT boost control solenoid reduces boost pressure to 5 psi when it's on and raises boost pressure to 7 psi when it's off despite showing the exact plumbing in the factory service manual and the solenoid behavior detailed in the FSM.
×
×
  • Create New...