Jump to content
SAU Community

Some Questions And Help!


rad100
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey i have some questions maybe someone could answer!

1- how do i check if i have a fuel pressure regulator?

2- how do i teel if my hicas is locked?

3- were do i get ecu chipped?

also i am putting rb25t onto my rb20det, to get close to 200rwkw should i get ecu chipped, fuel pressure regulator (if i dont already), cam gears?

also.... prices on chipped ecu, price on fuel pressure regulator , cam gears. and were to get cam gears at good price and were to get fuel pressure regulator.

cheers adrian...

Edited by rad33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

after market fpr can be easily spotted. Sits on the end of the fuel rail usually..are u still running the std fuel pump? If so get that replaced before the FPR (which u wont need for a while yet.) Something like a Bosch 040

Hicas, just look under the rear of your car. It should have a steering rack bolted to the diff. If it does, look at the boot rubbers to see if they have been fiddled with. If they look new, it probably has brass shims under them, or look under the rear parcel shelf in the boot for a little black box wired to the hicas computer that says Tomei. Otherwise its std.

Ecu chipping..decide on how far u want to push the car in later mods. If u cant see yourself going any further get it chipped, but it will cost to remap the chip again later if u add say a larger turbo. A PFC is a good investment for full tuning the car regardless. Shaun does wonders with tuning them. Cam gears are ok, check the forums, or www.perfectrun.com.au

Edited by Bl4cK32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok atm i have gtr fuel pump, cooler, e-boost, pod, will have rb25t on soon. then i want to go fuel pressure regulator, ecu chipped and re-mapped then up the boost... oh and bov after that! does anyone know a bov that flutters? i cant find any!!! as in like chi chi chi chi lol?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who have you found that is able to chip & remap the RB25's ECU? In the long run it may be cheaper & as effective to get a piggyback or stand alone ECU.

:D BOV's don't make the flutter noise...I'm assuming you mean the off boost flutter noise?? that's compressor surge. You can either run no bov or put any adjustable aftermarket one & set it at the tightest valve setting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok atm i have gtr fuel pump, cooler, e-boost, pod, will have rb25t on soon. then i want to go fuel pressure regulator, ecu chipped and re-mapped then up the boost... oh and bov after that! does anyone know a bov that flutters? i cant find any!!! as in like chi chi chi chi lol?

You probably wont need to get a fpr as yet. I wouldnt trust a 2nd hand gtr pump either...

What are the future plans for the car in terms of power? I pfc is a real good investment. Speak to your tuner or shaun at least and he can put u on a good path

Dont bother with a bov, u will get defected. A pod filter if u must have a woosh sound.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i basically want to get 200-220rwkw! and maybe 12 months later get 250-300 but i really want 220!!! what do u think i should do? whats wrong with gtr fuel pumps? i now mine is very loud hahaha but yeh wat u think will get me to 200-220?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll need an adj. fpr for more than 190rwkwish. Depending on dyno.

Grab a nismo one from nengun or a trader on this site. Should see you through to 220-230rwkw.

GTR pumps are old.. BUt they can be good. Just throw a cheap Bosch 040 in it. More than enough. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont like GTR pumps personally because most of the time u are replacing the std pump because its old, and doesnt flow. I cant see the point of sticking a pump thats just as old on, only for a bit more flow. Id rather rely on a new 040.

At 220 u may be seeing the limits of the afm, so u might need a z32.

For those power goals (more so the future) u may need a pfc, and injectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont like GTR pumps personally because most of the time u are replacing the std pump because its old, and doesnt flow. I cant see the point of sticking a pump thats just as old on, only for a bit more flow. Id rather rely on a new 040.

At 220 u may be seeing the limits of the afm, so u might need a z32.

For those power goals (more so the future) u may need a pfc, and injectors.

yeppers.... i have a rb20det in my r31 and im gonna put a vg30ballbearing turbo on it, get a remap and run a z32 afm...

jeff from speed lab recon that should c me round 190+kws... i think from memory a remap by jeff is around the 500 mark but could be wrong..

i found my z32 afm from kansai, they were pretty helpful, also try the for sale section here and ns.com... hope that helps a little

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for all the help guys!! im gonna get the rb25t put on then adj fpr, z32, and bosch 040 and save for a pfc!

so were can i get cheap PFC, ADJ FPR, Z32 and BOSCH 040?

cheers

Edited by rad33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most import wreckers should hav Z32 AFM on shelf. You might get lucky in the same respect with a PFC...........from what ive been told an RB25DET one can be used on an RB20 with a couple of wires changed around if you cant get an RB20 one. If you want an 040 new, most auto parts places sell em, second hand, shop around the forums FS sections

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe CRD do bran spankin new Z32 AFM's for around $300.

Motortraders can also do them for near that price.

With regards to the fuel pump look around here on SAU. Some of the traders sell them at an awesome price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

r 18inch rims legal for a r32? will it pass regency? also i noticed that my intercooler piping goes through the body just next to the pod filter! is this legal? regency booked for the 27th!!! 3 week wait!

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...