Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Traction is a prob so a clutch that could be ridden a bit would be better but i dont know if you can get a clutch you can ride that still wont wear out

$750 is a bit steap for me apperently daiken do brassy's for 500

i gotta decide soon though it's startin to slip really bad though a commondore almost kept up with me. hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-336046
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Bl4cK32

I've got a brassy in my 32, and have had no trouble with it. It is true, you do have to give it sum then dump it. Only thing its a bitch in carparks, or goin slow in general....not that I go slow.

hey black32 ive got a balck32 too hehe:D

i dont mind so much the parking and the slow driving hassels it will cause that jus goes with the territory likethe rest of the hassals that go along with hi-po cars.

Not that im complaining or anything i wouldnt have it any onther way

My biggest concern is take-offs as traction is a problem already

do you find that your tiptoeing on take offs or are you still able to drill it off the mark???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337548
Share on other sites

I can take off like normal, without tiptoeing it, as well as drilling it whenevr I want.

Give yourself a month to get used to it though.

BTW I've got my car in the shop now coz it split the clutch hose due to it being old, and the clutch is heavy as, so replace it when you do the upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337750
Share on other sites

When i installed my puck clutch i wish instead i had installed an R32 GTR OE clutch. Im sure it would hold the power of stock turbo, even up to 200kw with small aftermarket turbo.

It would have all the driveability of stock unit, handle some moderate abuse (any clutch can be fried) and would have been cheaper.

Whether the puck clutch is that much harder on the drivetrain or not, i dont know. I suspect they are as they sure as hell sound/feels like it, so cant imagine the gearbox/driveshafts/diff are immune to additional loading transmitted thru the drivetrain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337809
Share on other sites

brass button clutches can destroy diff's, axles, tailshafts, and gearboxes.

i am getting a 1 piece tailshaft, and if i blow up my diff, i will just get a mini spool.

but when you are building a performance car the brass button cluth does give u better acces to the power.

either clutch is good for the power though.

just like saying how longs a piece of string.

many answers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337856
Share on other sites

i have never driven a twin plate, but a friend with a r32 gtr has a twin plate, and he says it is also on/off.

you cant ride any clutch and expect it to be good for it. But the full face clutches are just easier to do it in.

twin plates are very expensive, and not really warranted for say 200rwkw. if you can afford it twin plates are better than brass buttons, but not really warranted unless you got a hipo motor to back it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16368-brassy-clutches/#findComment-337870
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...