Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbosmart Boost Tee Vs Turbtech

donut_kng

By donut_kng,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted

I have been looking a the Turbotech boost controller for $30 off Ebay and the Turbosmart Boost Tee for about $100, basically Im unsure which is the go as both these producers claim the same qualities such as quicker spool, better response at low rpm, etc, etc.

Is there any real reason to justify the $70 price difference between these 2, has anyone had experieneces with either or both, good things/bad things? The thread "I found a good cheap boost controller for $22" says alot about the Turbotech but is the Turbosmart just as good or any better?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163698-turbosmart-boost-tee-vs-turbtech/
Share on other sites
HR31_RB20DET Proficient

HR31_RB20DET

Posted
Posted

Yep turbosmart one sucks, mine lasted 6 months and now have a GFB which is better but is soon to be replaced with a Greddy Profec B spec 2.

If I wasn't going for a EBC, would have gone the Turbotech, heard such good reports about them.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted
Fair enough, and I have been hearing of some with the hole and without the hole? Have you guys found it to affect it at all??

Have a read of this thread. The last few pages has alot of discussion on hole vs no hole.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73375

either way, this is by far the cheapest and most effective manual boost controller.

sky-017 Proficient

sky-017

Posted
Posted

if your getting a fumble on boost , you will need to drill a 1.5 mm hole , to release air so it doesnt get stuck between the waistgate actuator. some of them had like a 08. mm hole , some dont . if your experience troubles make it bigger . also there is a possibility you will need to regap your spark plugs if your getting a missfire , and also check your coilpacks for cracks.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I had a turbotech controller and it was great, worked fine (I did get some boost dropping off over 6000rpm but I think that was due to the the restrictive front pipe and cat). The only reason I removed the turbotech controller is that I was given a ProfecB Spec2. The turbotech controller is being passed on to my mates apprentice :(

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
  • Author
Posted
if your getting a fumble on boost , you will need to drill a 1.5 mm hole , to release air so it doesnt get stuck between the waistgate actuator. some of them had like a 08. mm hole , some dont . if your experience troubles make it bigger . also there is a possibility you will need to regap your spark plugs if your getting a missfire , and also check your coilpacks for cracks.

Yeh thats my only concern, can you show me on a pic or explain where the hole should go?

tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
Posted

the hole goes directly opposite the barb not the barb opposite the screw end, the other one.. there is only one place you can drill that is a part of the body that is opposite the barb. I emailed the guy and asked that question. i drilled a 1mm and he said thats fine as long as it aint bigger than 1.5 mm as thats what he uses

mine was crappy after gear changes but fixed with that hole. as other have said best 30 bucks spent

BLK33T Community Regular

BLK33T

Posted
Posted

I heard the new boost tee (not the old bleed tap style) is basically a rip off of the turbo tech ... so basically the same thing but probally better engineered.

I've also heard that the turbosmart product is much easier to adjust ... a step by step locking adjustment style ... rather than a screw and a lock nut which is hard to adjust ... once adjusted though they should both work equally well.

If it was me id buy the turbosmart one as you most probally are going to get better support and product

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted
I heard the new boost tee (not the old bleed tap style) is basically a rip off of the turbo tech ... so basically the same thing but probally better engineered.

I've also heard that the turbosmart product is much easier to adjust ... a step by step locking adjustment style ... rather than a screw and a lock nut which is hard to adjust ... once adjusted though they should both work equally well.

If it was me id buy the turbosmart one as you most probally are going to get better support and product

Just buy the Turbotech one, or spend even more and get an EBC. No point spending $100 on a MBC when the Turbotech works so well. I had one up until recently and it worked perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...