Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is the Excel file I used to map my Fuel and ignition tables. I am sure some of you guys out there can get some use out of it. I recently had Mick from subzero Dyno my car. You can clearly see the fuel he took out of it at PFC load Value 15-16. The car was being retuned at 1.10bar. The Ignition points around 15-16 need to be trimmed at peak torque to reduce detenation. Did make 225kw tho. When the timing is retarded I think it will negate the extra boost and all I`ll end up with is a slight increase in mid range power only, probably actually loose some up top.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16374-power-fc-chart-mapping/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HKS Super Dragger Ex

HKS Dump Pipe

mesh removed from A/F meter (stock r33)

Apexi Air filter /partitioned off

Greddy 28c tube and fin front mount intercooler

Heat wrapped turbo to cat*

*cat in pipe

heat wrapped intake pipe

Power FC

HKS solid twin plate clutch

Cut out front bar

Oil air seperator

Bosch Motorsport fuel pump

Motul 5w40 oil

Nulon G70 with auto trans fluid in the gear box

1bar to 1.10bar boost

HKS EVC4

Pureone oil filter

Stupidly huge fuel filter

BPES7??? plugs 0.7mm

BP ultimate 98 Fuel 1bar- with octane booster for 1.1bar,also another 2degrees added with octane booster.

I`ll modify this post if I can think of any more

Originally posted by Steve

225kw with stock turbo!  1.1bar with stock turbo!!!! you're a very brave man:)

Your right on the money Steve, I only get near those figures with a healthy dose of octane booster and I still get a minor ping. I`m taking it down AIR for the next street meet. Fingers crossed I can get through another 6 passes.

Thanks boostd useful info.

I actually leaned out the fuel map at idle to try and reduce exhaust fumes (I don't have a cat fitted). Hunts a bit now (I took the AFM screens out also), but less likely to gas myself whilst idling in a semi-closed garage.

I'll drop my maps in for the RB26 and post here also.

Anyone else got RB26 maps?

  • 2 weeks later...

Its Greg from base. What do you reckon try loading your figures into my car. Where could I go wrong. Our cars have the same mods virtually. Mine has only had one tune for an hour on a 43degree day. So there is nothing to loose. I am planning a turbo upgrade in the near future so it will have a retune then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...