Jump to content
SAU Community

Hesitation/turning Off

govich

By govich,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

govich Community Regular

govich

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Recently the Skyline has been playing up a bit. The story goes - filled up BP Ultimate at the servo i don't usually fill go to. That afternoon, driving home the engine starts popping, farting and in general being very grumpy, and eventually dies. Try to turn it back on and it fires but only gets up to about 500rpm and dies again. Waited a bit, about 30 minutes, it started perfectly and i drove it home 10km without a hiccup.

Now a few days later i'm trying to get it to repeat the problem, drive 20km to a mate's place without a single bit of hesitation anywhere. Pick up mate, showboat through 1st and 2nd, keep driving up the road and it starts struggling and popping all over the place, eventually dies again. Managed to fire it up 10min later and took my mate home.

From here, things got interesting (this was last night). After waiting 30min i was able to drive for about 5 minutes before it spat the dummy and turned off. From there it was a game of waiting, babying along with hazards on and basically trying to get it home. It took about 3 hours to get it from eastwood to baulkham hills, including probably about 20 attempts to start it (glad i spent up on the battery....).

Today i checked the fuel pump, everything seems fine. It drove OK when i went up to a highway to give it a fang, but then on easy driving on the way back it crapped itself. It seems like it will only do it after the car is 'warm', or after about 20-30min of driving. That is if it hasn't been turned on for an extended period. If it's already warm (just been driven) it's prone to doing it at any time. I drained the fuel too and it doesn't seem like a bad batch from looking at it.

Cliff notes: fuel pump fine, fuel filter fine, car hesitates and turns off constantly when warm.

Any ideas are appreciated guys!

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163799-hesitationturning-off/
Share on other sites
fford1386 Newbie

fford1386

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure but sounds electrical most random/intermitting problems are. But I've had similar symptoms and speedworks picked up it was my AFM. I've replaced it but its doing it again - (maybe a break somewhere along the circuit or lose pins). Could it be igniter? Best bet is to have it on a dyno to try and simulate problem with fuel pressure gauge, scope on your ignition, or a scanner to read engine faults.

Good luck mines giving me a headache although I've resoldered the pins on my old AFM and it seems to be fine (so far....)

sapsR33 Explorer

sapsR33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys i had the exact problem with mine

i had no injector signal, sourced it out to be a faulty cam angle sensor, this could be your problem, get the mechanics to do a test on all signal faults and hopefully you should find the problem

govich Community Regular

govich

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how old is your fuel filter???

Could be a piece of shit in the tank that is every now and again stopping flow.....

Got most of the fuel out of the tank and it looks fine. Fuel filter is about 5000km max old (changed it myself) and is fine. I can blow through it.

Currently thinking the fuel pump's had it after 13 years of service, my recent upgrade to >200rwkW and thrashing at eastern creek drags. Bosch 040 is going in very soon.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

govich Community Regular

govich

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers Cubes. Just found this:

Engine cuts-out with tachometer dropping to zero. Attempting to restart the car immediately is futile, with no spark. After a wait of 5 seconds to 20 minutes the car can be restarted. However, once the failure has occurred it will repeat unpredictably & increasingly repeatedly.

on this site.

Couldn't have described it better myself. I guess it would apply to Skylines too. Looks like i have to hunt down a second hand CAS.

An alternative failure can be the Crank Angle Sensor,
Edited by govich
DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

Just for closure, the problem ended up being a stuffed AFM. One new AFM later and it's purring again.

Govich I was just wondering, did your "engine overheat light" come on during these hicups trying to limp home? The reason I ask is mine did exactly the same as yours today after not being started for about 6-months (Doing a couple of Mods) but made a "POP" noise before the hesitation started. I was only about 10mins from home but it feel hot when I felt the engine around 45mins after I got home. But it will still start but wont idle.

Reckon I could have the same prob????

govich Community Regular

govich

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Govich I was just wondering, did your "engine overheat light" come on during these hicups trying to limp home? The reason I ask is mine did exactly the same as yours today after not being started for about 6-months (Doing a couple of Mods) but made a "POP" noise before the hesitation started. I was only about 10mins from home but it feel hot when I felt the engine around 45mins after I got home. But it will still start but wont idle.

Reckon I could have the same prob????

Nope, no warning lights for me. Doesn't really sound like the same problem unfortunately.

mad082, not entirely sure what the problem was with the actual AFM, just know that the car works fine after it was replaced. Might open it later but i cant see myself being bothered..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...