Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Steve

Single 2835 produces less than twin 2530s.  The 2835 comes in a version with T3 flange and internal gate that would bold onto the stock R33 manifold.

do they?

new they would be around 6g, and i would be veryyyyy hard to find 1 second hand with T3 flange i recon

hey its just $$. And u r only young once.

haha.. don't forget this is coming from a guy who has recently lost his license for 12 months.. and he wants more power :lol:

On the power difference thing.. for the last couple of days i've had to drive a 1.5L lancer and 2.4L (?) Magna each with about 40fwkw (if that).. man, going back is a hard thing i tell you.. its like a whole different world.. so sllooooww

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by predator666

haha.. don't forget this is coming from a guy who has recently lost his license for 12 months.. and he wants more power :lol:

I havent lost it yet!

And there is 2 many other weapons on the road with owner with way more $$ than i will ever have, so no point trying to match em

Originally posted by raist60

Rev210 Are you serious? 300rwkws for 4 grand. Anyone who goes down this road is gonna have a motor that lasts a week.

1 thing ive learnt with these cars is DONT CUT ****ING CORNERS!

Be realistic and dont go building a half assed car.. Make sure you do it properly

TOTALY AGREE!

You only get what you pay for. If you pay 4K for 300KWs, there not going to last long, and your going to have no fun when you relise that you flushed 4K on bolt'ons.

Spend the 4K on the motor:

- Computer ($1500

- Injectors (work on $125 per injector/if you shop, about 800ISH)

- pump ($400 cheapy)

- Mild head work & cams (1K cams) (300ISH on head)

And there is 2 many other weapons on the road with owner with way more $$ than i will ever have, so no point trying to match em

Dunno about that.. if u had 300+ rwkw there is not much out there that would touch you in melb. u might give GTRs a bit of a run if u can drive well. most skylines around are all show and no go or around what me and u got at the moment (less than 200rwkw).. not too many people go that extra mile..

Remember that nutz 390rkw GTS-T that one those dyno comps last weekend? well I don't know of many others than mattlow's R33 that have too much over 300rwkw in an R33 GTS-T in Melbourne.

if u can play with the internals u can always stick something fun like NOS on there :D

Guest INASNT

matt, bigpsi, nigels 400rwkw surpa, ben from racepaces 480rwkw GTR, leewahs 380rwkw GTR are a few quickies i can think of.

Then there r those quick old school V8's going around 2, the drag ones that are street registered and just get driven at night!

stock internals can handle about 60hp wet fogger nos system!

definetly agree with these guys

go the suspension to get the power to the ground

ive got like nearly $5k of suspension and i still get trouble with traction and not a great deal has been done to my car

but ist your $4k so yeah

let us know what you decide be good to find out what you do as im think about spending the tax check in a few months all on the car

cya

Originally posted by JNR24

TOTALY AGREE!

You only get what you pay for. If you pay 4K for 300KWs, there not going to last long, and your going to have no fun when you relise that you flushed 4K on bolt'ons.

If the stock engine is tuned right 300kw will hang together quite well. The standard internals have ben known to handle this amount of power. Then again plenty of RB25's have let go at less than 200rwkw because of a crap tune or maintence.Also depends on what sort of life the engine has had and how many kms are already on it.

Irrespective of what you do to the internals more power will accelerate wear, a 500HP engine needs rebuilding more than twice as often as a 250HP engine, and it doesn't matter if you have forged pistons and rods etc, the bearings and rings will always wear out. If I ever decided to build a 500HP engine I'd expect to rebuild it (bearings and rings etc) in 60,000kms or less to save me having to buy a whole new set of forgies and things.It's just what you do.

It's quite true that 'you get what you pay for'....

...It just that alot of people don't know they are paying to get F#cked

300rwks seems to be done alot in Japan on stock internals, no I have never seen this, but I have it on several sources from people that have - the one thing they have in common is a metal head gasket to decompress the engine. This is to prevent detonation - which will kill any engine.

I read on a post of Merli's somewhere that he has been putting down 280rwkw for some time on stock internals and hasnt had any dramas yet.

I realise a metal head gasket is a bit of a quick fix, but if it works well - 1k (gasket fitted) versus many thousands - at the end of the day if the bottom end goes, just build a 3L to replace it. A 3L short motor is rediculously cheap.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Frosty

definetly agree with these guys  

go the suspension to get the power to the ground

ive got like nearly $5k of suspension and i still get trouble with traction and not a great deal has been done to my car

but ist your $4k so yeah  

let us know what you decide be good to find out what you do as im think about spending the tax check in a few months all on the car

cya

already got blistern springs and shock and just got some pineapples.

steve

hook me up with a place where i can get the 2835 with T3 flange

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Steve

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/btlist.p...php?type=engine

you want the 2835 pro. drop a line to simon (the australian rep) at [email protected] he's a pretty helpful guy.

thanks

i know the 3037 pro s also has a T3 flange connection, but i wonder if there is enough room near the stock manifold for 1 that big!

i could see this in my ar quite easily

1749.jpg

matt, bigpsi, nigels 400rwkw surpa, ben from racepaces 480rwkw GTR, leewahs 380rwkw GTR are a few quickies i can think of. [/quote

yes...but GTS-T ?? and these guys mostlyi all work in performance shops..which helps..

depends what u want inasnt.. nutty dragger or street car..u are aiming for both..if u do it well then u do well, its all in the research which u have been doing (**** i paid denham a compliment..oops)

Hi guys, let's not forget about weight, a 1,700 kg 400 rwkw Supra is hardly going to be any faster accelerating than a 300 rwkw R32 GTST. Pretty much same for a GTR, except it will at least have maybe a traction advantage. But it will loose a lot more power through the 4wd.

Hi predator666, ask ben, nigel and leewah how many k's they drive their cars a year? And whether they drive them everyday? What's the good of a fast car if you don't drive it? Sit and look at it and brag about the dyno sheet? Dyno heroes are simply not my thing.

There's a 900 bhp engine in the machine shop right now. Lucky to do 2,000 kilometres in the next year, and it will need a $3K rebuild after that anyway. Waste of $20K I say.

For a road GTST, I reckon around 260 rwkw is a nice reliable daily driver that will see off 99.9% of all cars it sees. For a GTR about 300 rwkw is OK, due to the extra traction and higher weight it has to carry. Everytime I talk to someone that has had that level of power, and then went much higher, they lament the compromises they now have to make. Not to mention the poorer dollar per horsepower return.

Hope that adds to the discussion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
×
×
  • Create New...