Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

glad i found this topic!!! just bout to thro a haltech into the car and then lookin at turbo options of good power and drivability without having to increase the rpm!

was lookin at the gtrs hks turbos

Edited by Turbz_13
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cruiseliner has had that username banned but he has the jun rb27 with To4Z, not the GTSS combo you mention :)

JustinFox is someone who had a thread recently about his GTSS dramas and then the solution.

justinfox is running 2530s mate. or at least he was.

Good results Nick as im telling you now on MSN... lol.

Here is part of the convo just for others, no point re-typing it.

GT-RS - 19/20psi

gt-rs 125km/h ~150rwkw

gt-ss 125km/h ~255wkw

gt-rs 150km/h ~255rwkw

gt-ss 150km/h ~300rwkw

Thats ~ 5200rpm

/end convo!

Anything after the approx 5200rpm mark and the GT-RS have caught the GT-SS and continue onto the bigger powers as you'd expect.

So you can see for a street GTR why the GT-SS dominate.

But for a drag or more hp aims, the GT-RS do well... Ill have a look for a good 2530 graph too, should be somewhere in the middle of the two

Whoops, sorry. They are GT-SS turbos "JA JUNG"+ funny jap clapping.

So 370rwkw from GT-SS turbo as 1.3 bar? Was that on PULP or race fuel? NOS?

Strikes me as being a little... well... optimistic unfortunately.

GT-SS are tiny-tot turbos of the HKS range.

Not much bigger than factory, around the same as R34 N1s.

When everyone makes 300-330rwkw from them, sitting around 20-22psi.

Then one car, just one... comes out and makes another 40-50rwkw from nothing doesnt add up at all.

If you said 2530's... it would be smack on the marker. But 370rwkw on PULP, thats very much unrealistic for GT-SS.

how do you think slides highflows would compare to the gt-ss in terms of response?

Without seeing them on a car with results, impossible to say

wow, thats a good post with good info from a person who can comment on both sides

i didnt think the GT-SSs could stay with the -5s so close, unless you mean the 20kw difference was the before and after cams with the -5s?

surprising is an understatement

go you little GT-SSs haha

Both set ups with the same Tomei cams 260/260 9,15mm nly the turboes changed

very interesting alchemist. basically the -5s have the same response as the SS and more power. can you refresh my poor memory with the specs/housings/part no. or the -5s?

just read back to your post alchemist. basically you are running the garret "2530" how different if at all is it from the HKS 2530? The only reason I ask is the HKS version is easier for me to get, and it comes of course with all the gaskets etc which save me some hassle.

very interesting alchemist. basically the -5s have the same response as the SS and more power. can you refresh my poor memory with the specs/housings/part no. or the -5s?

Always a bit of a worry when you have stumped up for the cash & you start seeing topics like this.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...