Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Can A Rb20det Take?

Draconis
 Share

Recommended Posts

Draconis Enthusiast

Draconis

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay, the below are a list of mods that will be in effect on my RB20DET. I am wondering as to exactly how much the RB20DET block can handle with stock internals before being unreliable and having serious issues.

RB20DET

Sliding Performance's top mount/high mount stainless turbo exhaust manifold

GT3071R

Tial 38mm wastegate set for about 11.603psi/0.8 bar

Plazmaman inlet plenum

FMIC

3" custom exhaust pipe, no cat, hks carbon ti muffler

Splitfire coilpacks

Nismo 555cc fuel injectors for rb20

Greddy Type S boost controller

Walbro 255 fuel pump

optional: cometic metal head gasket/arp studs

other: s13 VSLD 4.11 and custom one piece drive shaft

Will my car (S12) be able to produce approx. 300rwhp/223.88rwkw? Is this good for a couple dyno pulls only? Or is this good for daily? I do not drive hard, but I dont want my engine falling a part in a couple months. I am unable to find exactly how much power/abuse the RB20DET can take.

Thanks.

Edited by Draconis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163807-how-much-can-a-rb20det-take/
Share on other sites
legend01 Experienced

legend01

Posted
Posted

Hi Draconis

About the easiest way for you to find the answer to this question would be to have a look in the forced induction section at the dyno graphs,or in same section the top rb20 club .there's about 64 pages of people who are making big hp with rb20's relyably its onpage 2 atm.

I was making over 280rwkw for 12 months on a stock bottom end check them out im sure you'll find the answers you want there

Cheers Peter

Draconis Enthusiast

Draconis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks... I read up to page 25 on that particular thread... I saw lots of high numbers so I assumed I could make the power I wanted... but what I am really looking for is how much until the stock bottom end wants to give... that was in addition.

Draconis Enthusiast

Draconis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm also not using a PFC because none are available up here in the States anymore and as far as I am told, not really anywhere since they are not in production. So I am currently running stock ecu... trying to find a place here in the states to remap my ecu... but am thinking I'm gonna have to buy the unit/send my unit to Australia.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

If the motor is in good health, its tuned well, you run good quality oil and keep the oil temp and coolant temp in check, you dont rev it harder then std rev limit, you dont run more then 16psi then there is no reason it wont be very reliable at that power level.

Why not run an AEM etc? Dont they make ecus for RB20?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...