Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wouldn't it have alot to do with the gearbox and diff ratio's not the amount of mods or power you are making?

My understanding was that more power would just make you get there faster but you still come to a halt when you run out of gearing (provided you have enough power to push the car to the end of the gearing).

Originally posted by TIMMMAYYY

I reckon about 210 215 in my n/a pos

I'd second that, maybe actually a bit quicker.

I've had mine waaaay off the clock a couple of times. considering its doing 2500 RPM at 110 in top, then wound out at 6000rpm what would that be?On the numbers thats 264kmh, but I reckon given (a complete lack of) aerodynamics, clutch slip, tyre flex etc etc, its probably around 230-35, maybe a bit less. Could be wrong. and still pulling, I might add, but I buttoned off.

Irresponsible and wrong to do for sure, but I was on my own, no traffic round, 30+ kms from civilization.

Not bad for an old n/a pos....RB20DET would make for some fun...

cheers,

floody

Originally posted by NIZR34GTT

Hi Mick ,there is a hell of a big difference between 305 kph and 328 kmh I am not doubting over 300 but 328 mmmmmmmm I wonder.

Hands up anyone who can get over 300 kph out of there skyline,someone may just get a world record here lol.

GTR-700: Whilst still in its road legal trim, it exceeded 320 km/h - I have no real idea as to exactly how fast it was going, but I backed off at 8,100rpm in 5th gear (standard gearbox and diffs) using 18" (265/40) tyres. Do the math.

WARIO: 282 km/h - exactly... :D

Mario.

Yeah he was saying that he recons he would have got 310 if they had let him have another go. Still awsome to see the GTR at the top in such company. It is a nice car. Would have been great if Ben was able ot have taken his on the day.

Mick.

Originally posted by Mick Trainer

Yeah he was saying that he recons he would have got 310 if they had let him have another go.  Still awsome to see the GTR at the top in such company.  It is a nice car.  Would have been great if Ben was able ot have taken his on the day.

Mick.

Ben will get his chance - Tony's was second best choice for now I guess.

I still have my limiter on the R32 but my previous car was a VS v8 5 speed 3.5" exhaust chip etc etc.

I had that off the clock sitting just on 5500rpm. I remember at the time I worked it out that 5500rpm was around 250km/h.

From 5000rpm it used to take a little while to get to 5500rpm.

The spedo used to go up to 220km/h and it was still pulling strong as it used cruised past it.

The 32 is quicker though, it is noticible in third especially.

~230km/hr (on estimate of back aroundness).. with bit more to go...

Thing is not sure whether the GTS-T's are able to go too much past 250km/hr. I mean if you wanted to build one that went 300km/hr I am sure you could, but you'd have to stuff around with the gearbox and diff ratios - not something you'd bother doing unless you were trying to set a world record.

Speaking of world records, I believe JUN still holds that for a "semi" street car with their Supra... 401km/hr. They also hold the record for an R33 as well (383km/hr)

http://www.junauto.co.jp/democar/?en

Amazing how many of us have our own test tracks though isn't it?? ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...