Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just needed some advice...

I want to rebuild my boot so that my sub (12") fits into the right hand side of the boot. I want it moulded in so that it can be as out of the way as possible so I can utilise the rest of my boot space. Atm my boot is half filled with a sub box.

What I was wondering is, if I do the moulding with fibre glass, what is the likelihood of it cracking. I want to build an MDF frame and make the fibre glass mouldings around it, but I'm worried about cracking the same way fibre glass bodly kits crack over time. Is there a better way of doing it or should I not worry about this. I figured that with the extra rigidity of a good frame, this may not even be a problem.

Any advice or previous experience would be greatly appreciated :stupid:

Edited by R33-GTS

Build it thick and it will be fine... Build it thin and it will crack and explode under presure...

You have little or nothing to worry about mate ... a fibreglass box will be fine! im making one for my tyre well now .. just for tips make sure you get all the air bubbles out first because they are a killer

For a single 12" subwoofer you'll want the wall thickness to be between 6mm and 12mm depending on how many bends, strengthening ridges etc are in it.

When constructing fibreglass enclosures here we utilise an extremely sophisticated testing procedure to see if the enclosure is strong enough. I put them on the ground and jump on them. If the wall flexes at all then it is not strong enough. :)

hey mate

here is a pic of my 10inch in the boot. to fit in a 12 is no probs just need to extend the front of the box forward another 3-4inches. (did that in a mates car) maes the edge of the box come in line with the boot itself.

might make you change your mind in fibreglassing a sub box.

post-31466-1176512808.jpg

post-31466-1176512827.jpg

hey mate

here is a pic of my 10inch in the boot. to fit in a 12 is no probs just need to extend the front of the box forward another 3-4inches. (did that in a mates car) maes the edge of the box come in line with the boot itself.

might make you change your mind in fibreglassing a sub box.

That's an awesome job!

Now you've got me rethinking my design :)

Might take me a couple of weekends to put it all together. I'll post up some pics when I'm done :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...