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My car does burnouts everywhere - it's terrible (I have a r31 and look i'm not a bogan).

Anyway, was told the bush kits are going to be expensive to have pressed in so I'm wondering if anywhere does exchange and where people are buying this from!?!?

Most often than not armed with a hack saw, cold chisel, small/mini sledge hammer, and a drill with various drill bit sizes, a vice and or various exhaust pipe size to smash bushes in with you can replace basically any bush yourself. :O

Cubes - I was 'told' that it's hard to get in out, that's why I'm looking for exchange. I don't have a press and I don't see myself whacking things in... am I over complicating it? Is it really that simple? If it is I'll get a bushing kit and a hammer. ... btw what's the drill for?

T04 - Thanks for that... not keen on dealing with pedders, spose I can get over it but are their bushes/etc good?

I have a press but find I rarely use it. :)

I was told subframe bushes are difficult, I was also told castor rod bushes were difficult.

A drill with a drill bit ( to drill a bit of rubber out so you can get the hack saw in there), and hack saw a cut then smack it with a cold chisel (use the cold chisel on the cut you make) and its out. Easy as.

Even if you do struggle to get it out which I don't see why you would.

Pop down the local mechanics and have them press it out and the new in. They usually charge $10 or so per bush.

The hard bushes are the silicon filled bushes such as the subframe and castor rods on the R32's. Regular bushes are easy.

if you are going to pedders go to the one in artarmon. they are tops. a young guy and his dad own it, and the young fella has a nice STI so knows about performance. they sell whiteline etc bushes too.

A couple of things to know here , is it local or JDM ie 5 link or semi trailing arm IRS .

If its a locally sold sedan they have 4 parallel links and a panhard rod for lateral axle "location" . The upper parallel arms are much shorter than the lower ones which helps to keep the nose of the diff roughly aimed at the gearbox and keeps it away from the floorpan . The main issue with the differing arm lengths is "rear steer" with body roll and theres little you can do about that short of fabricating longer upper arms and the boxes that allow them to be mounted/housed above the floor pan in some areas . I think about the best you can do with the five link (for road) is remove the std arms and look for "air gaps" moulded into the rubber bushes . These are there to allow movement and make the bush more compliant . A cheap/easy mod is to fill in these gaps with a product called Stikaflex wich sets and forms the thing like a full rubber bush with less movement but some compliance . What you need to understand is that there has to be some compliance otherwise you load up the link mounting points on the body and axle housing to the point where things crack and break .

Four link/five link/trailing arm/semi trailing arm rear suspension have advantages and disadvantages , true multilink probably has the lowest number of disadvantages which is why most performance/upmarket cars now use them .

Cheers A .

Thanks for the info disco - I'm lucky to have you chime in on that.

My car is an ausline - so it is the 5 link thing and solid axle.

From what you're saying, the fabrication of longer upper arms and the boxes above the floor pan sounds like the ideal option. .. unfortunately I don't have a complex understanding of what you're describing, so I'd do it (the thing has no back seat and won't have anything in the boot etc) but I'd need someone who knew what they were doing supervising. This means it's not really an option :thumbsup:

As you suggest rear steer being caused by body roll perhaps I can mitigate it by adding bigger sway bars down the path. The thing already has some coilovers in it which have reduced body roll considerably.

I'm interested in the sikaflex idea, anything that stiffens stuff up without breaking it sounds good for what I'm trying to achieve. Will the air gaps be visible on the outside of the bush or will they be inside of it? If it's on the outside, when I get my new bushes I can fill it with sika - that's no problem. If it's inside, I guess I'd have to poke it in with a syringe or something? It might be hard finding a place to sell me a needle :\

Anyway, I went to my local sparts and the bushes were (from memory) roughly $125 and $145 (noltec). I reckon that's bloody expensive, on the positive side however the exchange arms were only $5 more expensive or thereabouts. Can anyone get any cheaper?

Thanks for reading if you made it this far O_o

Thanks for the info disco - I'm lucky to have you chime in on that.

My car is an ausline - so it is the 5 link thing and solid axle.

From what you're saying, the fabrication of longer upper arms and the boxes above the floor pan sounds like the ideal option. .. unfortunately I don't have a complex understanding of what you're describing, so I'd do it (the thing has no back seat and won't have anything in the boot etc) but I'd need someone who knew what they were doing supervising. This means it's not really an option :blink:

As you suggest rear steer being caused by body roll perhaps I can mitigate it by adding bigger sway bars down the path. The thing already has some coilovers in it which have reduced body roll considerably.

I'm interested in the sikaflex idea, anything that stiffens stuff up without breaking it sounds good for what I'm trying to achieve. Will the air gaps be visible on the outside of the bush or will they be inside of it? If it's on the outside, when I get my new bushes I can fill it with sika - that's no problem. If it's inside, I guess I'd have to poke it in with a syringe or something? It might be hard finding a place to sell me a needle :\

Anyway, I went to my local sparts and the bushes were (from memory) roughly $125 and $145 (noltec). I reckon that's bloody expensive, on the positive side however the exchange arms were only $5 more expensive or thereabouts. Can anyone get any cheaper?

Thanks for reading if you made it this far O_o

I can arrange Noltec replacement rear arms (inc adjustable panhard rod) if you want, PM for details.

:D cheers :)

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