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Car Won't Rev ! Help


dOOb
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G'day guys, i own a ca18det 180sx.

i need more ideas of how to fix this problem, basically car won't stay running without my foot on the accelerator, and when i do it won't rev pass 900.

i've changed the spark plugs, test the coils, did a compression test (all good), cleaned the most of the adaptors.....

is there anything else i should do to to get this car on the road again?

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same problem with my car,,, all it was, was the intercooler piping split where i could not see it... therefore, Atm will not be sending back a voltage back to the ecu. But might be good to check the voltage on the ATM with a multimeter, usually 0-5volt.

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not wanting to sound rude but what could be wrong with the afm? i did took the thing off and gave it a quick cleaned, and from inspection,i thought the thing doesn't have too much mechanical components nor electrical components for it to be related to any problem.

as for the intercooler, while carbie cleaning the throttle body, i did took some of the IC pipes off to clean off some of the oil, i remember i did tighting up all the clamps but will pull it apart and pull it back together again tomorrow.

uummm at this point i gonna say no to a new comp :) wallet is quiet empty now after easter.

by any chance could be related to the crank sensor?, cos i got it replace a few days before this rev problem

This happen a day after i degreaser the engine, but i did took the car out after i cleaned it, and it was fine

Edited by dOOb
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Is the CAS tight?

It might not be on tight enough and the timing is way out.

Check your connections on EVERYTHING electrical too. Just unplug them, and plug em back in.

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Check your intake piping, I popped off a pipe today and it did exactly as you described it. Won't rev and dies if you lift the foot off the accelerator.

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Check your intake piping, I popped off a pipe today and it did exactly as you described it. Won't rev and dies if you lift the foot off the accelerator.

took all the pipes of today and put it back today nothing change so................

Is the CAS tight?

It might not be on tight enough and the timing is way out.

Check your connections on EVERYTHING electrical too. Just unplug them, and plug em back in.

........i messed around with the crank sensor, i didn't take it off just losen the bolts and turned it in both directions a lil bit at a time. NOW THE DAME THING DOESN'T EVEN KICK OVER.

CAS was tight, timing is okay after i changed the crank sensor, i've already unplugged most of the adaptors and cleaned it with carbie cleaner.

ANYBODY GOT ANYMORE IDEAS?

Edited by dOOb
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try a fuel pump. i replaced one in a r33 that was doing the same thing fixed the prob

i checked the fuel pump when i changed the "O ring" on top of the fuel tank about 6 weeks ago, fuel pump looks to be near new, also checked the fuel pressure and thats okay aswell.

thanks for that tip SXC_R33, can anybody think of anything else that is causing this problem?

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+1 afm is stuffed actually a really common failing part and it wuold make the car not run past about 900rpm but you should be able to start the car fine, try starting the car with it unplugged if its worse its probably ok but if its the same then it could be stuffed

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its entirely possible that its the AFM as stated, and because its been running rich for so long you have simply fouled the plugs...

i'd say get a new set of plugs ($20 all up for NGK copper BCPR6ES) and get a hold of someone's AFM

change them both at the same time and see if it kicks over and runs ok

hope that helps

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+1 afm is stuffed actually a really common failing part and it wuold make the car not run past about 900rpm but you should be able to start the car fine, try starting the car with it unplugged if its worse its probably ok but if its the same then it could be stuffed

seeing how i've stuffed around with almost everything i can think of, next will be the AFM, will try it unplugged or swap it with a mate.

its entirely possible that its the AFM as stated, and because its been running rich for so long you have simply fouled the plugs...

i'd say get a new set of plugs ($20 all up for NGK copper BCPR6ES) and get a hold of someone's AFM

change them both at the same time and see if it kicks over and runs ok

hope that helps

i've already changed the plugs when this problem first occured, but that didn't much to it but might changed to those recommended to see if theres any different.

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yeah but what i'm saying is that the AFM is the cause, and the plugs are fouled because of the AFM

so a new AFM might fix the cause, but the car might not start still because the plugs are foulled

you have to fix the cause (AFM) and the effected parts (plugs) at the same time to see if this is in fact the case

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