Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm currently looking to buy an R34 GTR and I'm just wondering what the differences are between a non-vspec, a vspec I and a vspec II. I've had a bit of a search around the site and the net and haven't been able to find this information. The only thing i've picked up so far is that v-specs have better suspension. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Ashley

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164043-differences-in-r34-gtr-versions/
Share on other sites

There is not a whole lot different between the V-spec/V-spec2's and non V-spec. V-spec's were made from 1999- October(ish) 2000 then V-spec 2's were released until production was ended in 2002. V-spec/V-spec 2's have a viscous LSD as opposed to mechanical. V-spec/Vspec 2's have harder suspension and underbody air diffusers front and rear. They also have intake and exhaust temperature displayed on the dash screen. There is no real difference between V-spec and V-spec 2 except for a bonnet vent on the v-spec 2. V-spec 2 was released to coincide with a minor facelift given to all GTR's from October 2000 on. The facelift included: black interior instead of grey, clear indicators, stainless steel pedals, larger rear brakes and a few different paint colours.

My father is currently selling his GTR - http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...|1&trecs=21

There is no real difference between V-spec and V-spec 2 except for a bonnet vent on the v-spec 2. V-spec 2 was released to coincide with a minor facelift given to all GTR's from October 2000 on. The facelift included: black interior instead of grey, clear indicators, stainless steel pedals, larger rear brakes and a few different paint colours.

V-Spec II bonnet is carbon fibre with the NACA duct. V-Spec, and M-Spec bonnet is aluminium.

Series II BNR34 pedals are aluminium on rubber not stainless steel.

There are more differences as well regarding a couple of cost cutting decisions Nissan made when it came time for the series II BNR34. For example they deleted the rear wiper plastic under-cover in the series II, the radiator end tanks are plastic in the series II as well.

These kind of things are in keeping with Nissan's usual strategy of doing things cheaper later in a models lifecycle to fit improvements in such as the carbon fibre bonnet and slightly different rear rotors.

Also the V-Spec II suspension is stiffer than the V-Spec and M-Spec suspension. The M-Spec having probably the best suspension for street out of all the GTR's.

M-Spec also obviously has the exclusive colors and the leather interior making it overall the best pick of the bunch. Unforuntately for us it also commands a huge premium at auction in Japan . Usually over the 4.5million yen mark.

The best value if you're after a GTR is a V-Spec. The standard GTR's lack the agressive look of the V-Spec since they lack the second front lip. The missing rear diffuser kinda sucks too as they look much tougher from behind with it.

V-Spec II would be the next best in terms of value. You get a newer car but you pay a decent amount more for the privilege.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...