Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well I bought mine from nismo japan. can't remember exactly how much but it was nothing too bad. maybe $120 a pair. they look very good too.

if anyone really needs a set I can flog you mine and just buy some more, as my GTR isn't going anywhere for the next month and the rack bushes are just sitting in their packet.

natetune on IDA has them pretty cheap and they have comparison before/after pics of the extra lock they give.

and they come with full installation instructions. nathan was rather helpfull in answering any questiions that i had about them.

>>EXTRA STEERING LOCK TIE ROD SPACERS<<

before

4hkup75.jpg

after

3038rqv.jpg

Hi all. I finished installing my Drift Motorsport steering bushes on my 32. I do notice the difference - the car feels more consistent on sweeping bends for instance. I did have a little trouble fitting them initially as I did not think they would fit in well, but with the pressure of the stirrups pushing on them during installation everything falls in place. Instructions from Drift Motorsport are below for people's future reference. Note that fpr point 4 in the first section I had to buy a new longer bolt (M12 x 1.25) as I couldn't get the stock one any where near close enough to bite.

The two black bushes form a heart shape around the rack, on the drivers side. This shape is slightly at an angle, with the pointy end facing the front of the vehicle.

Here are some steps for installing the black bushes for the drivers side.

1) Remove top bracket and old bush

2) Lift up the rack and place bushes in line with the shape on the rack, with the pointy end facing the front of the car. Don't worry if there is a gap between the two bushes, as the gap will compress once the bracket is bolted down.

3) Place the bracket over the rack with the bushes

4) Place the smallest amount of thread required to hold the bracket in place, on the bolt facing towards the rear of the car (ie: not the bolt near the engine, the other one).

5) Use leverage and compress the bracket down so that the front bolt can grab the threads and tighten it up about 3-5 threads.

6) Tighten the bolts evenly and ensure that the bushes are aligned in their right positions.

Passengers side blue ring

1) Remove bracket and old bush

2) Clean surfaces with a rag

3) Place bush on the rack, with the split facing the rear end, where the two brackets separate

4) Tighten bracket evenly and to specification

5) If there is gap in the blue ring - don't worry as it is designed to have a gap there so that it can compress and clamp down. Factory bushes have this gap as well but it is harder to see as the bush and brackets are black.

Thanks, Ben.

  • 3 weeks later...

so if im correct, the drivers side bushes are two separate black half moon bushes,

and the passenger is a full moon with a gap so u can slide in on, with gap facing the rear of the car...

and there pretty much just clamp over...and bolted down...

correct??

and one more question..are all Nissan import cars the same?

cause i found these bushes on eBay, there pretty cheap..

but list it for 13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34, so im guessing we all have the same rack then?

apart from the gtr's???

but i looked in the nismo catalogue ..and they should them having different p/n's and different prices too...

so yeah..

wat u guys reckon????

plus anyone heard of D-Project bushes ??is that the same as the Drift Motorsport bushes??

  • 7 months later...

Hello, the Drift Motorsport bushes are the D-Project ones that we sell on eBay as well as other forums as D-Project.

The black bushes can be a bit challenging to fit - because of the metal inlay-rubber setup. They have been designed to be compressed by the mounting strap so that the rack is locked in to place.

I will be doing a complete BLOG of our R32-R34 front 4 door RB30/26 drift car buildup over the next few months with all of the Suspension setups and products that we will be using.

You can find more information here on our D-Project ns.com thread: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...amp;pid=4645329

Pictures of the D-Project Bushes:

dprojectlogo.jpg

Steering%20Bushes%201-small.JPG

Steering%20Bushes%203-small.JPG

Total: $85 Delivered

We are currently working on a new CMS / Web Cart system where all installation instructions, info and so forth will be made publically available online.

Please PM your order via SAU or email.

To order simply PM us on SAU on the Drift Motorsport account.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...