Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey There Everyone!

Due to an unfortunate incident involving a seemingly blind young chick crossing the highway, my 33 has had a turn for the worse... as a result, I got another one and have sum things to sell off my wreck. All body parts that could be painted (skirts, bars etc..) are in burgundy red and in excellent condition. All parts are of gts-t and r in good condition unless stated.. happy looking :P

Don't hesitate to make an offer if any items are incorrectly priced.

ENGINE ACCESSORIES

Sard 550cc side feed injectors (suit 33) – $600

Custom turbo made by ATS roughly 10,000k's ago - high flowed - larger comp and exhaust - minimal lag and no shaft play - its nice :( $990

T3/T4 XY Turbo + custom dump (up to 550hp) – setup to bolt onto rb25det (R33 gts-t) - $650

Standard R33 Computer - $150

BOV (GFB) fully adjustable pressure/atmosphere/recirculate - $350

Apexi PFC + hand controller (allready programed by Racepace in Bayswater, Melbourne) - SOLD

Bosch 044 in-tank fuel pump – good for 600hp - $250

(above setup with custom turbo was putting out 224rwkw @ 13psi as a daily driver - plenty of room for more psi - can provide dyno sheet)

BODY BITS

400R side skirts - (slightly damaged on one side, needs very minor repair - possibly no need to repaint as damage is on side covered by front wheel) - $250

400R rear bar + side pods - $500

Standard gts-t rear bar - $150

GTR side skirts - $200

GTR series 1 rear spoiler - $400

Drift spoiler - $270

Rear quarter panels - $650 each side

Doors - small dint on each door so... $350 each

Boot lid - $150

Tail light assemblies - $120 pair

Sunroof - Make an offer (don't really wanna let go of it but may..)

All parts already painted and ready to fit!

RUNNING GEAR

R33 gts-t engine - $2200

Gearbox (less than 8000km since full rebuild) - $2300

Tailshaft - $100

Diff - $900

H/D sports Clutch / 8000k's old - need to check condition - $250

INTERIOR

Dash - $400

Seats - $150 each

GTR indigo blue dash cluster - brightness and colour changeable - $1000

Complete interior available, too many parts to list - $make offer

SOLD : Electric window switch, stereo mounts.

OTHER RANDOM BITS

Brakes + master cylinder + rotors + brand new front brake pads on - $800

3½â€ cat back exhaust - $350

Lowered suspension, sits 400R front bar and skirts on 33 @ 100mm :rofl: However maintains nice ride - $500

Well thats all i can think of now, but if anyone is looking for any other things which aren't on here, let me know coz i've more than likely just forgot to put them up. If any prices seem wrong just let me know and we can work something out, fairly flexible.. haven't wrecked any skylines before. Obviously all prices need some postage put on top, but that can be worked out on a per/part or group/parts basis. my number is 0439 563 027 and my email is [email protected] - if no answer on mobile, just leave a voice msg and i'll get back to you, or sms. cheerz!

Edited by gajac1

I wasnt... I was just reading thru and noticed it was missing... thought I'd ask you right now seeing as the post was so recent and you'd reply straight away :P

good luck with the sales :(

got me excited about the 400rs until I looked at the $$$

I can get new ones for that price.

Then again I'm in sydney ... sigh ... postage is a bitch :P

what kind of lowered suspension is it?

was sold to me with car as Nismo suspension, however i've not been able to find any distinguishing marks on it. I can pull it out and have a closer look if you're serious about it. I drove the car for 4 years, handled nice, drifted well and rode 100times smoother than the 33 i've got now! cheers

yEAH I'M ALSO KEEN TO KNOW A LITTLE MORE ABOUT YOUR SUSPENSION.

hOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE RIDE??? i HAVE A SET OF TEIN COILOVERS FOR TRACK WORK BUT WANT SOMETHING SMOOTHER FOR ROAD WORK..

yEAH I'M ALSO KEEN TO KNOW A LITTLE MORE ABOUT YOUR SUSPENSION.

hOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE RIDE??? i HAVE A SET OF TEIN COILOVERS FOR TRACK WORK BUT WANT SOMETHING SMOOTHER FOR ROAD WORK..

Hey man, i don't know a whole heap about the suspension just yet. We're pulling more apart tomorrow so i'll try and get that out too. It was sold to me as Nismo suspension, however as i've never taken the suspension out, i've never been able to identify any markings on it. It rides pretty smooth given that it sits the car at a pretty good level. I'd say it was a little soft if you were serious about drifting or doing circuit, but still did both fine. My new 33 is the same height but is alot firmer and isn't half the ride. They'd probably suit you well for road driving. let me know if you need any more info, i'll try round up some pics. cheers, grant

Are the seats GTR or GTS-t. Can you provide pics?

Cheers,

EUG.

Hey, the seats are the gts-t seats, can provide a pic tomorrow, got an email address for me to forward it to? cheers, grant

Bro, I want your Spoiler... but you are asking for wall too much... my budget is $150.00...let me know. PM me or something.

which spoiler you talking about? got alot ov body parts up there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...