Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm starting this thread so there is somewhere to compare maps..Not sure if this has been started already somewhere else.

I have a GCG high flow that has some hesitation/misfire when backing off slowly. SK said that it is common to have to increase ignition advance by 10 to 15 deg over the default maps at certain load points in order to get the 450hp turbo to run smoothly on the Rb25.

I am after someone with either stock turbo and tuned precisly or someone with a GCG high flow and stock AFM to share there maps so I can drive it for a while before I get a tune as I still have to add a few mods.

I have been playing around a bit but it's easy to get too much knock..with the stupd hand controller and driving it makes it hard. I don't have datalogit so if anyone has the maps in .xls (excel) it would be good.

I remember Paulr33 did quite a bit of work with adding advance to the first 10 x10 lot of cells..

THanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164117-r33-powerfc-map-sharing-thread/
Share on other sites

The car should run fine on the base map with regards to general commuting.

Paulr33 playing with the first 10x10 maps only alters the cruise and 'very' light throttle acceleration.

If your having hessitation/backfire when backing off the issue isn't cause by the turbo, check your tps is set correctly and the car isn't running overly rich. Ensure your getting reasonable economy, which is 400km's+ per tank when driving it normally with the odd squirt. If your getting sub 400's then start looking at the AFM, O2 sensor & injector condition.

With regards to knock pull a good 6-7degree's. If it still knocks you may very well be knocking due to it running lean.

So be carefull.

Its hesitating when easing off the throttle - not when fully off it.

Maybe at some low load points it is also..i.e. at low revs medium load.

Fuel economy is still the same. I have only changed the turbo - nothing else.

Edited by benl1981

where are you ? if your around sydney / newcastle area and your interested in getting it tuned i am tuning a R33 Power FC on sat arvo on a guys car that i installed a KKR turbo on last weekend and will have the tuning gear (power fc laptop software and wide band sensor)

Let me know if your interested in getting it done

If you haven't already, double-check the mechanical side - make sure hoses are tight etc. There's no point trying to tune out a problem that isn't related to tuning :)

Assuming you've already done that, you could try this. It's been a while so I can't remember what it's called, but there's a screen on the PFC named something like "map browser" - it shows a 20x20 matrix with a dot on it, indicating which part of the maps you're currently using. Take your car for a spin and have someone watch that screen, and have them note where the marker is when the car starts to miss. Clean up the fuel/ign maps around the area indicated by the marker. It gives you somewhere to start anyway.

you mean the map tracer - monitor - map trace

If you haven't already, double-check the mechanical side - make sure hoses are tight etc. There's no point trying to tune out a problem that isn't related to tuning :)

Assuming you've already done that, you could try this. It's been a while so I can't remember what it's called, but there's a screen on the PFC named something like "map browser" - it shows a 20x20 matrix with a dot on it, indicating which part of the maps you're currently using. Take your car for a spin and have someone watch that screen, and have them note where the marker is when the car starts to miss. Clean up the fuel/ign maps around the area indicated by the marker. It gives you somewhere to start anyway.

  • 9 months later...

That was last year, n e way, in regards you got to remember the time and money put in for such maps n e way from reputable tuners and such, i dare doubt some people would want to share there maps due to money basis, Not only that is that there is so much variance between cars these days, it would still need to be touched up or re done by a tuner n e way...

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...