Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Runs Like A Dog...

matteh33
 Share

Recommended Posts

matteh33 Enthusiast

matteh33

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys.

my 96 r33 skyline is running like a dog, and has been ever since i bought it. now the problem is if i have it with over drive off ( so it kicks into 4th), when i take my food off accelerator fast, the car drops revs down down sounds like it is about to stall then bubbles and bubbles then kicks back upto normal and so on. I have replaced the intercooled and pipeing with a justjap cooler thinking it could be air leaking but didnt help at all...

Cars a auto too sorry

anyone got any ideas on why this happens?

Edited by matteh33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164120-r33-gtst-runs-like-a-dog/
Share on other sites
EVILTD Collaborator

EVILTD

Posted
Posted

I have exactly the same car as yours... I actually specifically wanted a turbo Auto as I'm fan of the 1/4 mile and like the way auto Skylines fly... damn fast... ok now... if you want to race in an auto... you have to do it the right way to maintain the revs at the higher RPMS...

This is what I do.... leave it on D - rev it all the way up to around 3,000 rpm's (with overdrive turned off)... then quickly kick it down to second gear... then you'll find that you'll maintain the car at the higher 4,000 - 5,000 RPM range quite well...

Also, there's a POWER button in the centre console...kick the down too... it should give you a bit of a kick in... I changed my fuel pump so being auto it reacts really well... damn fast... if you still expeience the sluggish performance... I'd bring it to a mechanic and get it checked out asap.

Good luck bro.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
when i take my food off accelerator fast, the car drops revs down down

you're still grappling with the "pickle matrix"

try keeping the food off the accelerator completely... :D

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
air flow meter?

I second that. it can be cleaned by removing it and running some metho or other non-residual contact cleaner over the little wires that hang down inside it (but dont touch these contacts with your fingers or anything). The metho will clean it up, then just leave it to dry for about 30 mins (metho dries very quickly) and you can safely put it back on the car and you're good to go.

if you like you can also tip a tiny bit onto the actual contacts where the plug connects to it on the side...just to make sure the plug has a good contact.

its a quick and easy check so i'd do that first.

otherwise i guess check plugs/coils etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By Duncan · Posted

      I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...