Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't care what they look like - as long as they are buckle free and can be balanced.

Don't are if they have rubber or not as I will be putting MT ET streets on them.

Must be fairly cheap !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164190-wtb-cheap-wheels-for-drags-x2/
Share on other sites

have a set of supra stockies - 17 x 9.5J 5 stud PCD114.3

suspect the offset is around +45.

used to house 255/40's which have gone to god.

can courier these to wherever it is that you are for $350 ( wheels and freight total).

B-Man - some members seem to be getting confused as to what you'll pay. I'm not so much confused as curious - but wouldn't ya help us all out by telling us what you will pay, as opposed to what you will not pay? Saves an awful lot of junk posts which are destined to go nowhere, and only bump this thread unreasonably ( in much the same way as I am doing, but hopefully SAU-wide posts like this are acceptable).

For what it is worth, I have a set of 4 Technocast rims ( don't have photos) that came off my GZ TT aero. They are 16's, and I suspect between 8.5 - 9.5. All in excellent condition ( not that that matters given your application for these rims), and I can courier a pair of these to your door for $250.

May also have some spare 17" Manaray RS-6 Hypers ( nice wheels) - have a full set but one is buckled, could do these for $320 for the whole set to your door.

Cheers,

J

Hi - It's a bit hard to say what I will pay - because it depends on the what people have to offer. I think I have posted a reasonable accurate description of what I want and why I want them.

Again for the record what I want is:

A set of two (2) - Rims for drag use

Any condition as long as they are not buckled and can be balanced. (ie Not new rims - scratched is Ok - I don't care what they look like - ie they can be 3,4,5 spoke, mesh, steel, dish - whatever.

at least 8" wide - prefer 9"

16" or 17"

between 30-40 offset

114.5 x 5 PCD (skyline, ford, mazda PCD)

Reasobably cheap

Prefer Sydney Pickup

Obviously less then $350 as I have stated this.

J - the Technocast (I don't know what this is) ones sound OK - if you could get details (size, etc and perhaps pics) that would be great. I don't need 4 so I amy be able to sell the other 2

Thanks

probably wont be interest but hey.

got 1 zeit rim 18" x 9 1/2" with a buckle off a toyota supra.

3 X 17” burnout tyres

1 x Bridgestone 215/45 ZR17 GRID II Runflat tyre with light surface bubling on inside. And a not penetrated cut. Tred – Deepest part has 5.5 mm, lowest part 3 mm evenly worn.

1 X Bridgestone Potenza RE 030 235/ 45 R17 light cuts but no deep ones. Tred deepest part – 4mm lowest part 2mm evenly worn

1 x ZEXIUS 225/50 R 17 with a small not penetrated cut, Worn slightly on angle. Left – 4mm, Middle – 3 mm, Right – 2mm

$40 the lot i am in gympie qld.

mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
×
×
  • Create New...