Jump to content
SAU Community

replacement box filter


Recommended Posts

Guest Boxhead

im pretty sure you can get a nismo one, or possibly a HKS one, but i am not sure who you would approach about getting one...

and i rekon if you cant find a k&n fit in replacement your not looking hard enough, ive heard of lots of people using one...

but those things aside, im pretty sure rev210 is using a drop in replacement, ask him.

Is that size 282mm X 169mm ?

Same as N14 Pulsar and 200SX ?

If so I have 100 Jamex ones that I sold about 3 years ago and the guy went bust, so I repossed them. They are triple density foam, the ducks guts in airfilters.

If not let me know the size and I might have some.

If they fit, $35 each posted to anywhere in Australia, I'll take Visa or Mastercard.

Is there a NOTICABLE change in power when the filter is changed for a highflow drop in replacement? We pulled out the filter in the R33 for a test run down the road and noticed a fairly lage gain in power. (for test purposes only, we put back in straight away).

Would a good panel filter show almost as high of a gain as a boxed pod or no filter? It's hard to decide on what option is best as they both have their good and bad points.

Hi guys, 360's, so the Jamex ones will fit. We get a 6 rwkw increase on mild tune 200SX's with them, don't see any reason why you would not get around the same on a GTST.

They retail for $90 each so $35 posted is a bargain. Let me know if you want any. I will post a For Sale in the relevant place.

Guest silver33 guy

i was gonna go a pod filter originally but have been warned about the noise level. i like my skyline to keep a low profile - the huge exhaust already draws a few looks from the cops! if i don't get a performance gain i can 'feel' with the k&n, i may still switch to a pod filter.

oh so we are talking about panel filters here? of course there are drop in panel filters for skylines... k&n, blitz, hks, trust, apexi, redline... every brand has them. You can get the k&n or redline from Autobarn, or the other Jap stuff from performance shops... this shouldn't be an issue at all!

the challenge is trying to find a air box containing a pod filter like mugen do for hondas... they would work wonders, keeping out engine heat and saving you from a canary (provided cops don't open up ya box)

Hang on, let me get this this right............

In Vic your'e not allowed to change your air filter?

How do they know that the car wasn't complied with it?

Why do they think it's illegal?

Surely not too loud?

It's not a pollution issue, the air goes in, not out doesn't it?

Or is this just an excuse to give you guys a hard time?

If it is, someone should sue, find a car that's complied with a POD, cop a couple of defects, then sue them for harrasment. Win just one case and they will have to stop this sort of crap.

How does anyone know whether it is complied with the pod or not, the import papers don't show such detail... could have put it on afterwards... true air goes in, but more air comes out (that's what i heard). I also heard cos it could catch on fire in the engine bay, and i heard they like to give us a hard time.

Guest RedLineGTR
Originally posted by CR34TION

the challenge is trying to find a air box containing a pod filter like mugen do for hondas... they would work wonders, keeping out engine heat and saving you from a canary (provided cops don't open up ya box)

I know people that have been given fines and yellow stickers for even boxed pods, and epa usally open up the box to see if there is a filter or a pod (For r32 you can mod the box to house a pod) anways the best alternative would be a k&N panel filter, they have been proven to filter the air quite well compaired to other filters (also foam ones) they are easy to clean and last for ages. The price isnt to bad either. My 2 cents.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...