Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

your not going to stick with the the 3 litre or u got bigger and better things on the cards?

Well i must say the 3L /4wd combo is exceptional and people dont realise how much torquer the 3L twin cam is over say an rb26, i dont think i could ever drive anything but a 3L again it just wouldnt do me justice! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164464-sold/#findComment-3082423
Share on other sites

Well i must say the 3L /4wd combo is exceptional and people dont realise how much torquer the 3L twin cam is over say an rb26, i dont think i could ever drive anything but a 3L again it just wouldnt do me justice! :domokun:

so any hints then as to what your going to be doing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164464-sold/#findComment-3083154
Share on other sites

will u seperate intake plenum

Yes for the right price, intake plenum comes with borred out tb, modified coolant hose, modified coolant apparatus, aac valve modified, custom accelerator cable and all bits and pieces needed to bolt it straight on!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164464-sold/#findComment-3089426
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...