Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i mounted one in the passeger side of the front bar and the other i relocated to sit horizontal below the middle of the radiator and put a deflector plate in to duct air up from under the car.

Had to make some new brakets but seem to be working ok have good oil temps just a struggle with coolant temps

Can anyone confirm if the just jap ones can be fitted with oil pressure senders. Should the sender be fitted to the sandwhich plate on the block or to the relocator on the inner guard???

EDIT: Yep looks like they do on the filter relocator would of thought the block end would have been better but this will do I think!!

Edited by noone

Hi,

Interesting reading where people have located their oil coolers. I thought it would have been best to keep the oil lines as short as possible, although i have no basis for this. If HKS and Greddy are mounting them in the passenger side guard, i suppose its ok. I have thought about mounting mine horizontally and fabricating ducting to suit as stated here, but i think ill have enough room in my drivers side guard, as ive got an R32 gtst with a gtr engine and its all pretty custom.

Anyway, has anyone used the EARLS oil coolers, because i was thinking of getting one of them and purchasing braid to suit.

Shaun.

i mounted one in the passeger side of the front bar and the other i relocated to sit horizontal below the middle of the radiator and put a deflector plate in to duct air up from under the car.

Had to make some new brakets but seem to be working ok have good oil temps just a struggle with coolant temps

So any thoughts on my idea to mount it where the SMIC usually lives?

run the oil lines through the reo bar, like in the hks pic. you dont need to get that extreme with the ducting tho, thats an awesome setup.

mine sits in the passenger side guard, its closest to where the oil filter goes so keeps the lines neat.

The earls ones are a good core the mob I brought mine offa got one of them first but two problems

No relocator in the kit and lines would need to be modified if you added one in as it only comes with two long lines

Depending on where you mounted it they may be too long if you were mounting between radiator and intercooler

Just jap one looks quite good though and could always replace that core with a earls one if you really wanted quality externally looked same same though

Hi,

Interesting reading where people have located their oil coolers. I thought it would have been best to keep the oil lines as short as possible, although i have no basis for this. If HKS and Greddy are mounting them in the passenger side guard, i suppose its ok. I have thought about mounting mine horizontally and fabricating ducting to suit as stated here, but i think ill have enough room in my drivers side guard, as ive got an R32 gtst with a gtr engine and its all pretty custom.

Anyway, has anyone used the EARLS oil coolers, because i was thinking of getting one of them and purchasing braid to suit.

Shaun.

hey shaun, yes the shorter the lines the better. but it's ok to sacrifice some longer line in order to get a better mounting spot.

the earls gear is quite good. I had an earls core before. just make sure you use a soft hand when doing up the fittings to the core as I have seen a few people bust them where the fitting is braised onto the top of the core.

in my opinion the trust coolers are a better piece of gear.

Just gone through the exercise on a '98 GTR. If you are using a larger cooler there is not a lot of room in any spot.

I made the fatal and expensive mistake of chosing a larger cooler and wanted to use a thermostat and did it via group buys and custom purchases. Hindsight would have had me pay the $1k or so for a complete kit from Japan that should fit where intended.

Started with a Performance-Wise kit but was not totally happy with the cooler (I'm being fussy here) - the rest of the kit looks good. Got a new cooler and thermostat from one of the other SAU traders and used these bits and some adjustments and new hoses made up by my local Pirtek man that cost me $350 in addition to all the other bits. Thats just over $900 without the hours to make up the brackets and fit the damn thing. End result is pretty good though and all bits are well out of harms way.

FWIW I mounted a B&M hardened cooler in the LHS wheel well. Needed to remove the plastic inner liner and make a cut out to allow air flow through from the front. Allows me to keep the brake cooling duct below the cooler and take air from beside the front indicator as well as draw air from the wheel motion out the back. Made a bracket up that used the spare holes below the air box.

Mounted the oil relocator using a custom bracket off the RHS engine mount support to fit into the gap between engine and front diff so it is all tucked up out of harms way. I mounted a thermostat mid way across the front cross member on a custom bracket that fitted the holes in the cross member. Used braided rubber lines all and JIC fittings all round and also used some of that plastic spiral wrap on all the bends where the braid may rub on stuff to stop it cutting through. Used braided rubber instead of braided teflon as the teflon kinks a lot easier.

Hope it helps.

hey shaun, yes the shorter the lines the better. but it's ok to sacrifice some longer line in order to get a better mounting spot.

the earls gear is quite good. I had an earls core before. just make sure you use a soft hand when doing up the fittings to the core as I have seen a few people bust them where the fitting is braised onto the top of the core.

in my opinion the trust coolers are a better piece of gear.

Thanks mate, ill keep that in mind. I like the idea of purchasing the core seperately and getting lines to suit because im worried that the jap kits wont fit in the intended position, as ive got some other custom stuff in the areas intended. Also, ive already got a remote filter fitted.

Shaun.

I can do you a good deal on Earls stuff, just let me know what you need ([email protected]). I'm going to order a whole bunch of stuff from them in about two weeks for the Project Car (oil catch can lines and replacing hosing with braided lines, etc.).

I had Trent & Sam at Northern Beaches Performance mounting mine. It was a JJR 21 row cooler. They ended up mounting it on the driver side in the front bar behind the turn light. About half of the light mount is a vent back into the engine compartment so in normal conditions it gets direct airflow. They also modified the light mount so that when I went to the track I could take the light out and the total vent area would flow through the cooler. They had to shortern the light housing a bit as it extended back too far to clear the cooler when in. I also had a filter relocation kit and it is now easily accessable in the engine compartment. Pics of all below.

On Wednesday I had it out for a track day and the oil temp never exceeded 90. Works great.

post-33908-1177739175.jpg

post-33908-1177739212.jpg

post-33908-1177739251.jpg

post-33908-1177739283.jpg

post-33908-1177739318.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got around to trying to fit the just jap 19 row with relocator but trying to find room!!!?!!?

Doesn't appear to be room in either of the normal spots (below the headlights ) by relocating the piping from the blow off valves I might be able to fit it between the radiator and FMIC but,

possibly due to my 100mm thick intercooler core and aircon and power steering cooler,

it'll be Damn tight will have to trim the mounting tabs a bit on the ends of the cooler

anyone manage to get one of these to actually fit?????

Figure the braided lines will be way to long too :)

and will have to run the lines into the top of the core, will have to if I plumb the bov back in with modified piping,

would of thought going into bottom of the core would have drained out better as this will end up leaving the cooler full and

it would mean the pump is having to pump uphill to get to the cooler core

Damn havn't even started trying to mount the filter relocator yet

Will post some pics tomorrow

Edited by noone

FWIW:

Finally gave my Serck Speed 19-row cooler a thrashing at Wakefield. Did not see oil temps over 110 all day.

Contrast this with my old B&M cooler in exactly the same spot (different fittings is all) which saw up

to 130 before I said 'enough, it's not working'.

Mine's mounted in the driver's side guard; I have no BOV's (there is not really room for both).

There's a hole behind it to let air out.

If your kit has specific mounting instructions and brackets/bolts etc; then mount it where the kit says to.

Otherwise, just find some airflow that's not being used elsewhere and appropriate it :)

FWIW also; you could fit a 26 row (or whatever-the-next-size-up-Serck-core-is) in the same spot that

my 19-row cooler is fitted. I was going to do this if the Serck one did not cool enough.

Regards,

Saliya

Yah, I have pondered this as well. Drivers side has BOV's in the way, passengers side vents into my CAI. On top of all that, i don't really like the idea of all the hot air washing around inside my front wheel wells. I also don't really want to massacre my stock inner wheel liners.

I'm tempted to place between AC condenser and radiator, to aid when heating the oil up, (don't have to run a oil stat) and also to act as a decent heat sink; surely a 120 cooler will still transfer heat to a 100 radiator.

Hrmmm sacrifices....

i have to be honest I reckon mounting one anywhere other than in either the passenger side duct, or the drivers side duct is a bit of a waste. mounting it in front of the radiator just robs some airflow to the radiator. and then you have intercooler, air con core, oil cooler and radiator all in a row. not good.

Thanx for the pic ronin thats pretty much where I had wanted to put mine but wasnt sure about the air flow with the core on an angle like that

nothing some ducts wouldnt fix I spose

either way I do agree that behind the intercooler is less than ideal so I might give that a go

Nice work though with the fittings on the bottom it would drain out good to depending on where you mount the relocator

Do you plan on refitting the plastic liner with the brake ducts etc ??

Bout the only spot I could fit it was like this

post-33041-1179135627_thumb.jpg

And a shot without the core of the same area, good shot of the power steering cooler

post-33041-1179135715_thumb.jpg

Think the spot yours is in would be better as even by reversing the brackets on the power steer cooler to get as much room as possible its still a tight fit

really dont want it to rub through on the oil cooler

Thats without even taking into account the problems with airflow and heat from the radiator and intercooler sandwiching the oil cooler and would need to relocate the

recirculation pipe for the blow off valves as the section where it goes over the bumper supports would have to be straightened out so it runs under that bracket.

Will have a better chance to play around tomorrow an see how it ends up

Edited by noone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a difference between "selling" a product to someone (which, if you walked into a workshop or bricks and mortar store and bought and walked out with it, is just the act of buying and selling) and rolling your buggy into a workshop and having them fit non-roadworthy stuff to the car. And for the latter, let's ignore any potential legal loophole arguments that the armchair lawyer might want to make to differentiate between supplying your own parts to be fit by the workshop or getting the shop to supply and fit. The workshops that have been dealt with in the US for this are in the latter category. It would be near impossible to try to charge/attack/criminalise a shop for selling "for off road use only" parts to someone unless those things were intrinsically illegal in their own right, or had other legislation wrapped around them, such as there is for guns, pharmaceuticals, etc. Well, no. And you knew your argument was silly when you made it. And there is. it might be somewhat harder in Vic, but then that's the price you pay for electing the long list of (unts that you have to run the whole shit hole**. But otherwise, you can put an aftermarket or otherwise tunable ECU into a car and get it run through the whole shebang of emissions testing as part of an engineering cert and, so long as the tune is "locked" afterwards, then that modification is on the list that is approved on the cert. But....it is an expensive process. ** Of course, the (unts who make up a large proportion of the population that eternally try to get around the rules are also a part of the problem and the reason that you end up with draconian rules in the first place. By contrast, SA was founded and the government and civil service set up and run by very sensible types (largely German) who set up good structures that enabled a lighter touch of government on the somewhat better behaved population. it is only more recently that we have followed the rest of Australia down the criminal drainhole of penal colony behaviour and now we have to catch up with mobile phone cameras and so on.  
    • Not specifically the revamp Toyos. In the past I've used Nitto NT01s, which were essentially the same compound as R888 with a different pattern (that's what the internetz said, so just be facts). I did like the NT01, progressive fade, didn't go from grip to 0 grip in a split second. If you look at the serious street/track guys, most are either on Cup 2, A052, A050, AD09, CR-S or AR-1.  
    • I have one of these! It is absolutely useless. It provides not nearly enough force on the bolt, it just slips over anything that is not finger tight. And if it's finger tight, you can use your fingers.
    • You have to take photos of the car in Victoria with a timestamp. So if you have big aftermarket turbo in your engine bay, your car is simply not getting a RWC and you'll be doing a lot of returning to stock, and re-modding after about 90 days (because cars that have had a RWC can be audited after the fact). The law I'm kinda ambivalent about. I can see the logic and the writing on the wall, Cobb etc would be well known for selling to 'wink wink off the street usage' but in the real world everyone knows what they do and where they end up. It'd be like someone selling guns in Australia but "only to people who have a proper licence" but selling them outside of Bunnings instead of sausages to anybody. Like RWC's, and VASS's and EPA, this is enforcement of the actual existing rules. I haven't looked into it but there (should) be a way for people to legally pass their tuned car to be within the rules if they can prove they pass emissions laws that are applicable. If there's not then that's another story.
    • Interesting post(haven't watched the vid). I'm surprised companies can be fined for selling products that are specifically meant for certain applications.  How can you force a customer to use or apply your products in 100% the way intended? People have been misusing products since they were invented. Heck, I ate dessert last night with a soup spoon. Does that mean the spoon manufacturer could be fined? And what of the customers who actually want to use the product for its intended use?   I'm sure we could discuss and debate this for a while, but this is an introduction thread and I dont mean to take over it.
×
×
  • Create New...