Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hrmmm. talk of height of the cooler??????? whatt tha. lol

anywhere on the lower half of the radiator leval so the air gos through it not over or around it. that hks kit looks realy nice. with the ducting.

for the track a minimum of 25 rows will be ok. ive got two. still gets hot but. one in the brake duct one infron of the radiator making it over heat :)

noone - i reckon where I've got mine is your best bet. That way a bit of bent aluminium shrouding can duct directly to the front bar inlet. Also there is no other cooling or obstructions around there.

h2k - that's not so good as you've already passed air through the intercooler (slowing airflow, and heating the air), then partially through the oil cooler (remember air velocity is now reduced) and then through the radiator (if it goes through it at all).

remember what i said earlier that if you don't have exit vents, or enough airspace behind the cooler (be it intercooler, oil, or radiator) it will do NOTHING to cool the face of the cooler. Think of the practical example - if you open up the window of your room, and shut all other doors, there is fark all air flow as it doesn't have anywhere to exit. If you open the door the air will travel in the window and out the door, i.e. the path of least resistance. You MUST allow the air to escape once it has passed through the core.

hope that helps

totally agree Ronin, Baron an all an after a bit a dickin around this arvo looks like I can just squeeze it in there

still a little concerned about the angle but like ya say bit a ducting allgood

Looks like the braided lines supplied wont be too helpful might be able to shorten on an use the others they might be a little short though

Still gotta finalize the position for the filter relocater

hopefully mount it down low in front of the crossmember see how it goes

and holesaw a bunch a holes into the plastic guard liner too ventilation ventilation

Just wish that intercooler piping left a little more room

I had the oilcooler mounted in front of the radiator, but this setup is much better. It's a HKS S-type, deflectors etc. are included.

well considering i'm halfway through my fuel system may as well start looking at the next thing I wanna do which is an oil cooler and relocator kit.

Looking at the nengun site the HKS Type S kits seem to be the basic ones and the Type R kits are the ones that come with the oil filter relocators and ducting but according to the HKS website only the Type S kits are avaliable for a 33GTR.......actually no there are type S kits that come with ducting as well :laugh: omg so hard to understand. Can anyone clear this up? does the Type S kit for a 33GTR come with the ducting but not the filter relocator?

Hmm can probably live with the filter still being down underneath, keeps it out of harms way I suppose and it's not that hard to change anyway, K&N hex head filters FTW!

crappest pic ever but my remote filter is on the front of the cross member... awesome for access to change the oil... probably not so good for something ripping it off.

but if something rips it off, say goodbye to the front bar, lower lip, intercooler too!

post-1486-1179230954_thumb.jpg

After looking at the ripple strip paint on my crossmember I think thats a little low and exposed for my liking

that said I doubt it woulda hit but still a little scary (mine is too low though too)

appreciate all the pics though guy

Was thinking the other side probly only a foot or so forward of the normal mounting point

but much much easier to get to an will try an tuck it up a little more

not too sure how to route the lines and thinking that my choice of mounting spots may be why the lines look like they are all wrong

probly wouldnt have brought a kit if I were doing it again individual parts

and custom lines to suit!!!!!

Edited by noone

Others have touched on it...but air is lazy and will take the path of least resistance. Which in 99% of cases is around the cooler unless you force it to go through, ie ducts and guides. There is also another place to convenient install them which noone is thinking about :) Mush better performance, though is a full weekends work doing it :(

Others have touched on it...but air is lazy and will take the path of least resistance. Which in 99% of cases is around the cooler unless you force it to go through, ie ducts and guides. There is also another place to convenient install them which noone is thinking about :) Mush better performance, though is a full weekends work doing it :(

horizontal mount with 90 degree (high pressure) ducting from the front bar, with neg. pressure of air under car drawing air out of cooler?

or out back near the diff?

lol...we have had this discussion, but thats one way., Buit for road cars with stones. water splashing everywhere etc. You only have to spend 2 hours lookign at race cars to see a whole other possible ways of doing it that may better suit your sized cooler and where you want to put it

Sorry ronin meant my cars too low not the oil filter

Yeah I figured that was the tow hook thingo in front of where yours was mounted so

realisticly its probly fairly safe I guess

Mine is actually still in process of being decided upon/mounted

but back to work tomorrow so I guess it wont get finished now for a week or so.

Damn braided lines are going to be all wrong methinks Damn!

Roy are you talking about me or noone inparticular???

Any suggestions much appreciated bud

Looks like the GTR's getting group buy suspension too so might be off the road for a little while

had a quick look tonight and that spot actually is looking better an better Ronin assume u used the bolt holes for the power steering lines,

Had wanted to tuck mine up near the drivers side engine mount but I dunno if I am going to manage to fit it in their though its tight!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...