Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTR Vs Evo 9  

74 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

get the GTR, As good as Evos are, its just a shitty lancer :D

Ditto. If all you want is a wheelbarrow that handles go buyt a kart. Both the evo and the rex are darn plain shitty looking cars compared to a 15 yo line. As for breakage. if you leave the line at the same power output as the evo it wont break either.

Trouble is, we keep on trying to squeeze more and more out of them. That said. who gives a shit, If it aint breaking you aint tryin hard enough. Leave them alone and they wont break, Mod them and they will. So will the others if they are taken to some of the extremes that lines are taken to.

As the driver of the giant car said. he owns both and with the same dollar invesatment in the evo it still wont blow wind up the arse of their gtr. So much for their performance kudos.

Ditto. If all you want is a wheelbarrow that handles go buyt a kart. Both the evo and the rex are darn plain shitty looking cars compared to a 15 yo line. As for breakage. if you leave the line at the same power output as the evo it wont break either.

Trouble is, we keep on trying to squeeze more and more out of them. That said. who gives a shit, If it aint breaking you aint tryin hard enough. Leave them alone and they wont break, Mod them and they will. So will the others if they are taken to some of the extremes that lines are taken to.

As the driver of the giant car said. he owns both and with the same dollar invesatment in the evo it still wont blow wind up the arse of their gtr. So much for their performance kudos.

An EVO holds the record at Tsukuba.....by a decent amount too, but that said for every fast EVO there is a GTR that is close and visa versa at TS in recent years

I think Dollar for dollar they would be close enough for the driver to be the main difference!

I hear what you are saying Andy but imo the only thing that even puts the evo near the gtr is the fact that it is a a lightweight.

An Evo is as heavy as an R32GTR!

And Light is good :whistling:

But each to their own

Really tho. He sold the gtr for a reason to buy the evo. He needs to ask himself what that reason was. If it was 4 doors and a boot, then the gtr is a stupid option. If it was he just didnt like the gtr as much as the evo, same deal, buying a newer one wont change that.

Grrr this is sooo hard and confusing, its true what u guys have said bout modin skylines up n pushin em to extreme and breakin em, same applies to evo's. id own a evo over a crappy rexy any day and any time ;)..... U R A BUS Hahaha

any ways yeah im hell keen on the 34 gtr and i love all skylines, im just 50 50 which sux. well i'll put my evo up for sale and see how that goes and hopefully i mite be back with the liner cruise YAY :whistling:

I'd say stick with the evo.. but then again i know how much u love ur bloody gtr's :P haha just gotta keep in mind also that i KNOW u'll end up doing quite abit of mods if you decide to get the GTR (even though u say u wont :P hahaha).. the evo is has warranty for ages, power is fantastic.. it goes so beautifully around corners, low k's, almost brand new.. and im sure the re-sale value will hold alot more than the GTR, and best of all its sexy :):wub::thumbsup: hahahaha

but all in all, its ur money pumpkin and im sure u'll make the right decision :):santa:

squish this is for u! >_<:yes::(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
×
×
  • Create New...