Jump to content
SAU Community

Remap Stock Ecu In Brisbane?

kristafa

By kristafa,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

kristafa Proficient

kristafa

Posted
Posted

Ordering a slide hiflow turbo soon, and anticipate that i'll need to do some AFR correction on the dyno to get the most out of it. I see chiptorque offers a re-chip + dyno tune for around $1k, but i was wondering if there's anywhere else around that offers the same service?

Some posts suggest that dr drift is a good alternative but dont know when he'll be in bris next.. i want to get something done soonish.

Would anyone suggest that i just go with a apexi safc or something so any tuner can tune it? would it offer similar flexibility/performance?

any help appreciated, chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
ob1 Community Regular

ob1

Posted
Posted
i notice rb25's are not listed on their site for retunes (mercury...).....that sucks!

In fact they CAN do an R34 rb25, but not an r33. Depends on the ECU of the car model, rather than the engine itself.

From above link:

CA18, RB20, RB26 $330

SR20 – S13, GTIR $450

S14 $550

S14a, R34, S15 $660

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Burgerman Enthusiast

Burgerman

Posted
Posted

I know some people have good experiences with dr drift and factory ecu tuning at mercury but unfortunately I fall into possibly the few number of people who had nothing but troubles with mercury and their dr drift tuning of the factory ECU. Personally I wouldn't recommend wasting time with the factory ECU, invest in a decent aftermarket ECU, I know it's more expensive but considering the dyno time that ended up wasted for me, if I had gone the aftermarket ECU straight up i would have saved alot of money.

Not bashing mercury here, I know they do good work for people but I had nothing but troubles. PM for any details if interested.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RB120WHY Enthusiast

RB120WHY

Posted
Posted

Mercury have tuned mine and i am really happy with it. My car is now my daily driver, is great around town and does 11's down the quarter. I will upgrade to a Z32 afm soon and will take it to them for a retune for more power. In MY personal experience with engine management I would NOT be recommending aftermarket management. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ZENNON Grand Master

ZENNON

Posted
Posted
In fact they CAN do an R34 rb25, but not an r33. Depends on the ECU of the car model, rather than the engine itself.

sucks for you chris - not that you have to worry - you wont be driving for a while :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB gearbox options

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • r32-25t
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By r32-25t · Posted

      those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • TurboTapin
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...