Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Matt.. I was thinking.

Could you see your self with 250-300rwkw and a .........

.........GTR?

The 4 wheels trying hard to grab traction in second with your eyes being sucked back in to your skull. :uh-huh:

Matt. Watch..

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/46rot...tor2003Kier.mpg

I mainly wanted to get on here so I receive updates.

Without looking back through the threads I presume the rebuild is happening at RPM. I spoke with a guy recently at the Morpowa day regards his car at RPM having the exact same thing done due to ring land problems. I dont want to spark any Microtech vs PFC debates however I cant help but wonder if the knock sensing abilities of the PFC might have saved you.

Yep Greg, RPM are doing the rebuild. And yes 3 x RB25DET rebuilds in recent mths (all due to similiar failures). RPM was chosen by the respective owners to carry out the rebuilds. Not because they (RPM) were responsible for them! Just wanted to make that VERY clear to all :)

The PFC has not saved some from the same fate ;) I know of 3 PFC equiped GTS25t's that have had failures of the same kind. In fact one of the WA guys on SAU (who's running a PFC) had a rebuild recently for the exact same thing.

Not being familiar with the PFC knock detection, I guess it comes down to how quickly the driver reacts to the warning? For example, how quickly would the damage be done @ 7000rpm in 4th? It wouldn't take much to cause a failure under those conditions. By the time the knock detection had giving a warning, & you'd noticed it (I'm usually focused on the road/track doing 7k+ in 4th), the damage is done. But like I said above, I'm not familiar with the PFC knock detection. It uses the engine check light to flash its warning, yes?

I just remembered which forum member had the GTS25t, running a PFC, that let go just like mine. Killer T

Have a read of my posts in the later part of this thread! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ghlight=rebuild

I had a strange feeling that things were going to go wheels up on me! Nothing was wrong with my car/engine at the time, nothing at all. I always seem to be a step ahead of myself ;) Wish I could put that to good use somehow?

Rob,

Not all of them were making large power. One was from a suspected bad batch of fuel. Another was on the dyno (had gone from ~160rwkw to ~220rwkw via a new ECU, + other mod's) when it let go.

I wouldn't be too concerned about failure @ the 160rwkw mark mate. As per usual, it's all in the tuning. The more safety margin in the tune, the less likely your are to have a failure. I'd say that @ 250+rwkw with standard internals, you need a safety margin.

Another important point - If running stock injectors @ higher than stock fuel pressure, make sure that the fuel pressure is VERY stable, i.e make sure your fuel pressure reg does a very good job regardless of temp's. Its all too easy for the pressure to drop slightly & if the A/FR has been set-up so there's only a small safety margin then that pressure drop is enough to cause an unwanted BANG!

Knock detection is certainly a v/good idea. Knock detection that retards timing the millisecond it detects it! Knock detection that gives you a warning you have most likely already damaged your engine isn't much good.

And finally, remember we are talking about engines that usually have a few k's on them (sometimes hard driven with mimimal maintenance).

I poped through RPM today and Matt..

Your car still looks as clean as ever.

Those tyres look damn nice.

How on earth could you consider selling it. It has to be the nicest R33 I've seen.

Tim was telling me that microtech soon are releasing a L16 I think he said that has the provision for knock detection, speed input hence traction control etc..

Sounds good.

Matt, I remember reading your going for 300rwkw. Are you sticking with the same turbo?

Thanks for the kind words mate :) Trust me when I say I'm not the one who has considered selling it! If it was up to me (& me alone) it wouldn't be going anywhere :P

If, in the very unlikely event, I do manage to keep it then I'll see how much more the current turbo has got in it? I'll aim at running ~18psi on the new motor, depending on how the injector/fuel rail issue goes. As part of the rebuild I'm hoping to get larger injectors & a custom fuel rail (IF it doesn't blow the cost out too much) Why? Well I'd like to get to use the car to full potential for a few months before selling :)

Knock detection with timing retard & traction control would be very nice features to have.

One bit of advice, run it in properly. Load it up by full throttle up hills but DONT rev it out for at least 1000 kms. Other wise u will hurt the engine and it wont perform as good as it should. Dont put addatives in the oil such as Slick 50. Do it right and u will have a great motor , i know its tempting to give it a REV but just go easy for a bit and it will last u alot longer.

Hey u wanna swap it for my car :]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...