Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a Ku Engineering plenum, I was surprised how little effort it too to fit up, it cleared the clutch master and only had to make a small modification to the water lines under the plenum.

Great price also, got the plenum and a Sard rb26 fuel rail including mounting brackets for a little over $800 Fedex'd

Edited by murrayis

hey

its coming along great.

i wanted to order the tomei rb24 pistons but they are discontinued. do you think i could get ross pistons to make me up the same pistons as yourself. i have gtr crank and rods and 9.25mm lift 270 in&ex tomei cams with solid lifters

let me know,

cheers

hey

its coming along great.

i wanted to order the tomei rb24 pistons but they are discontinued. do you think i could get ross pistons to make me up the same pistons as yourself. i have gtr crank and rods and 9.25mm lift 270 in&ex tomei cams with solid lifters

let me know,

cheers

Yea that shouldn't be a problem. All the info I have on them is on the previous page so that should be enough info for you to call them and tell them what you want :P

Just remember AUS vs USD atm isnt that great might be worth trying ACL etc. see if they can make a custom set up for you.

Is the Ku Engineering plenum any good?

I was looking at one myself but its hard as i dont want to buy something and find out it sucks after a paid for it lol.

Seems to be fairly good, only comment I had for the plenum was the intake runners at the face of the plenum are a tad small but nothing and hour or two on a dremel didn't fix for mine :D

Inside was nice and smooth no visible defects, just a bit of cleaning on the outside to remove the metal polish. Fitted past the clutch master thought much of a drama, I spoke to Jack alot from Ku Engineering he was very helpful with dimentions etc so I knew it was going to fit.

On another Note,

A few changes have to be made before I goto the Dyno to get it tuned.

1) I need to lower the gearbox as I think its jutting the gearbox tunning somewhere when the engines running

2) Exhaust need to be lowered 20 mm at the front and a side effect of lowering the gearbox 10mm will bring it in striking distance of the tailshaft.

Alos how do you seal a vband dump pipe? Mine leaks in the gap on the Clamp?

Nah I have a BMI 80mm I was going to get one but got offered this one to pay a bill ;)

Just an Idea of shipping he posted it on Saturday, it arrived the following tuesday he told me on msn on Wednesday hes posted it lol

Edited by murrayis
  • 2 weeks later...

Well its all done! ready for the tune!

But... Was running it a little yesterday messing with the idle bringing it down from 2000rpm to sit around 1200rpm when.... I noticed a nice water feature from the engine bay shut it down quick smart to investigate and found the wate line under the intake had 4 or 5 pin size holes in it all spewing out coolant. Quick tip always replace all those old hoses even if it look fine its the only hose I didnt replace in the water system.

Ordered from nissan $30 later it will be here monday :ermm:

good work mate. i love seeing a project from beginning to end.

I am looking forward to seeing how the tune goes and what sort of response and power you end up with.

you have done all the hard yrads and now comes the time to enjoy the results.

goodluck!

Well got the new water Hose today Another $30 for the local nissan part department.

Fitted it all up started it up, bleed the system topped up the coolant. But noticed a slight hissing sround from Number 1 injector shut it all down and took a closer look, Last time I had the injectors out I musn't of put the o-ring back in square so it was half jammed down the hole... pulling air down past the injector... not good!

Pulled all the injectors out and checked over all the o-rings, added a smidge of silicon lube to eash o-ring just to make the seal a tad better and reseated, fired it up problem gone :P

On a different note is there a 12v source hear the battery thats only active with the ignition so I can wire a relay to it?

Cheers

Cameron

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Time for an update.

Today was the day that has been two years in the making... 7am picked up the car trailer got down to B.E.S.T performance who we had hired the dyno from strapped the car down all was running sweet.

After 45 minutes of getting the fueling correct we did a run and made 164kw on 6.3psi adjusted the fueling a little more 197.6kw on 6.3psi... and thats when the postive mood got shot down.

Third run something was wrong the entire run was 20kw short of the previous... lots of blow by coming from the cam cover breathers.... Ticking sound....

All I could think of was... Bearing...

Got the car home checked the plugs... no oil on them..started her up for a second ticking sounded like was in the head...

Tomorrow we will pull the head off i just hope its nothing major!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...