Project 24

[murrayis]

No damage to the heads its perfect. thank god!

Bore is fine in all 6

Oil pumps fine, so just need a crank and bearings and get the number 1 rod checked over.

Dirt Do you know if mark would have any R33 rb26 cranks he would sell?

Cameron

[huddy]

not good.

hopefully once it's sorted, you will be able to get as much fun and reliability out of it as i did with mine

-Matt

[Dale FZ1]

Number 1 has Hit the Head, We pushed on each piston and when we got to number one it moved down a mm or 2 :-(

So we will be pulling the res of the motor out tomorrow to strip it down and see what in the world went wrong, But its sounds like the little end thats kuput

How has the post-mortem gone? ie I would want to know exactly what caused the failure since there had been no contact between piston : head.

If the bearing is only gone for #1 I'd probably concentrate there first.

Oil pressure may have been fine, but is there any chance of a blockage in that journal?

Alternatively, maybe have a close inspection of the piston, rings, lands etc and look for evidence of knock. I'd think that detonation/knock serious and prolonged enough to cause bearing damage would have seen similar probs throughout and not confined to #1.

[murrayis]

Well,

We spoke to Liddles Head Shop yesterday regarding this, AS he's who I turned to to check the cam shafts over. And he seemed to think that the main bearing would of let go due to the timing belt becomming so tight and putting too much force on the top bearing surface as the bottom surface on the number 1 main bearing is pretty much fine all the damage is mainly to the top side.

Main bearing 1 and the big end bearing on number 1 are the only bearings that are rooted.

We did inspect the pistons and rings and they all look perfect the rings look like they were running in nicely! We only going as far through the tune doing the base fuel tune/fuel pressure adjustment and 2 first full runs to 6500rpm held a nice 11 - 11.5 Ignition timing hadn't really been touched and there was no sign of detination.

Tomorrow we are goign to be re-checking the tollerances etc to make sure all that was spot on but we double and tripple checked it before it all went together.

The Oil journal is all clear no blockagepouded some oil down there and flowed through without any problems.

Cheers

Cameron

[bubba]

ive thrown RB30 blocks and cranks out...lol

got another whole engine given to me the other day because i wanted the oil pump housing off it.

dont go RB30...only wankers do that.

lol

My crank cost me $100 because I couldn't be bothered taking the engine home to pull it apart just so I could take the crank back to be ground.. so I just paid the guy to take it out for me seeing as the crank was technically already where it needed to be

P.S. 3L torque ftw!

P.P.S. fair enough cam, I know what you've put into this engine so it'd be nice to see it all the way through! good luck bro!

[rinmak]

Guys I have a fairly similar noise in my RB25DET and ive been scratching my head to figure out what it is. Heres the story

The motor itself hadnt been run for nearly 2 years. It was off the road for a build im doing to my 180sx. In this time I had the head off the motor, poncams professionally installed in said head and I bolted it back together with a new genuine gasket and ARP head studs.

A workshop got the car running and noise very similar to Camerons appeared. The workshop assured me they primed the car off the starter motor first to build oil pressure.

I havent checked that much myself so far, just a simple compression check which all came up fine (shouldnt be bent valves etc)

The wierd thing is, if I run the car for a while and take it up n down the block for example then the noise goes away. It only seems to be audible for the first 5 or so minutes the car is running.

What would this indicate? From my knowledge you will always be able to hear a bearing failure in a motor correct? Once they start they will not go away?

[murrayis]

that could be noisey pistons with alot of clearence, and when they heat up expand and they stop ratteling...

[rinmak]

Thanks man. Should have included this in the original post but oh well..

The bottom end was left completely standard the whole time. It is an 80,000km bottom end and the noise wasnt occuring 2 years ago when I heard it running before purchasing the halfcut. When I had the head off the bores were spotless as well.

EDIT: I did turn the bottom end over by hand maybe a total of 30-40 times whilst the head was off. Would this have caused any damage to the bearings do you think? I had drained the oil but I thought there would still be residual left overs to keep things lubricated. It would have been turned over after just over a year of not moving.

Edited January 28, 2009 by rinmak

[murrayis]

Well just got the number 1 rod back from Bryants Engineering in Sumner Park from being resized, they had to take 2½ thou or 0.063mm off it. I am hopefully picking up a R33 GTR crank this weekend. So the plan is to have it back together and in the car running before March

[murrayis]

Well I need some Advice from all the knowledgeable people on SAU, I have no idea what would cause the following which I found today when I had a chance to finish pulling the block apart:

Oil pump:

Thrust bearing:

Another Issue I can see if with the clutch, Is there smaller throwout bearings for the GTR box? as I can see its not wearing in the same position as it previously was.

Edited February 17, 2009 by murrayis

[huddy]

with the thrust bearing for the clutch - i've found that twin plate (is yours twin plate?) use a smaller thrust bearing as opposed to standard ones. Sometimes you may need to change the pivot ball aswell as these can vary in length depending on clutch.

hope this helps.

[murrayis]

Huddy,

The clutch I have is a Tripple Plate. Thrust bearing? or the bit that pushs against the centre of the clutch to take the pressure off it? throwout Bearing i think its called?

Thanks.

[dangerman4]

Hey

get a impact driver and remove the srews holding the backing plate on the oil pump.

then have a look in there to see if the pumps shagged?

i would be getting a new pump personally regardless due to the chance of it being the cause of this, and also

the chance of it having metal filings in it.

[murrayis]

Yep I plan on pulling it apart and checking it out, the pump is a brand new unit less than 15 k's on it so it should be fine, but I dont know why the crank would of grazed the back side of it :S

[huddy]

whatever that bearing is called... lol i think we're talking about the same one - the one on the clutch fork in your gear box that pushes up against the front of the clutch.

[murrayis]

yea thats the one. It would appear I need one with 20mm smaller diameter.

Edited February 18, 2009 by murrayis

[murrayis]

Quick Update - Had some time today to start assembling the block, Spent 2½ hours this morning cleaning the block with a toothbrush and 4 ltrs of part cleaner. Installed the new ACL bearings lubbed them up nicely installed the crank and torqued the cradle down nicely.... moves so smoothly compared to the other one you needed a spanner to turn the crank.

Also cleaned up the pistons and installed and torqued them down to spec.

Hopefully tomorrow I will get time to install the pumps and sump then its just a matter of bolting the head back on and back to the dyno we go. I'll post some pics up tomorrow afternoon after I'm done with it.

[BlueRB240]

Quick Update - Had some time today to start assembling the block, Spent 2½ hours this morning cleaning the block with a toothbrush and 4 ltrs of part cleaner. Installed the new ACL bearings lubbed them up nicely installed the crank and torqued the cradle down nicely.... moves so smoothly compared to the other one you needed a spanner to turn the crank.

Also cleaned up the pistons and installed and torqued them down to spec.

Hopefully tomorrow I will get time to install the pumps and sump then its just a matter of bolting the head back on and back to the dyno we go. I'll post some pics up tomorrow afternoon after I'm done with it.

Eye of the tiger, most people would have just given up and moved on.

[rodger1]

Hey what did you find with the oiil pump? was it caused by the thrust bearing allowing the crank to move forward? If it was i would just double check the end float on the crank (thurst bearing clearance) so it doesn't happen again. Good Luck you Deserve a good motor after what you have been through

[murrayis]

Thanks for the comments.

The old bearing have all been tossed out, We expect it was end float and part of the bearing rubbing on the back of the oil pump as it went past it.

To fix it up from the misshap I have had number 1 rod Resized 2½ thou, replaced the crank, had it machines to the correct clearences for what we want to rev it too and installed a new set of ACL Race series rb26 bearings for both mains and big ends.

Edited February 28, 2009 by murrayis