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I love your loyalty to this project. I am not selling my RB26 bottom end now. :devil:

lol Thanks... its been 2 years in the making so no point giving up on it now..

Doesn't that tell you something ??

Yea I put it down to us increasing the oil clearance this time by another ½ a thou, and the fact when I tried it last time it was after It had spun a big end and a main bearing.

Anyway, I spent today doing as much as I could in the 36 degree heat! I spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the Sump and Head, I couldnt believe the size of the bits of bearing the I got out of the sump, I ended up filling it with water and putting a few welding magnets in the water to pickup all the small particls and large flakes a bearing. The head took the most time as I didnt have the tools at home to remove the valves so it flushed it slowly cleainng out all the oil and any small traces of bearing I could find... which was only 1 or 2 specks.

I installed the Sump, Oil pump, Rear Main Seal, Exhaust manifold, Turbo and the Head today. I held off with the water pump due to a couple of the bolts looking a little worse for wear I shall pickup some replacments from nissan this week.

Anyway heres a couple of picctures of where I am upto.

post-23119-1235886691_thumb.jpg post-23119-1235886579_thumb.jpg post-23119-1235886867_thumb.jpg

Edited by murrayis

I have been looking over my figures for the head bolts of what I had written down a year or so ago, can somsone confirm these for me.

1. Tighten to 22 ft/lb

2. Tighten to 80 ft/lb

3. Loosen bolts completely to 0 ft/lbs

4. Tighten bolts to 22 ft/lbs

5. Turn bolts 85-90 degrees clockwise with an angle wrench, or tighten to 76-83 ft/lbs when torque wrench is used.

From looking over the nissan manual these appear to be the rb26 standard torque settings, and ARP recommeneds 109ft/lbs as the final figure is this tru for the rb20 also?

I am using ARP studs for the head.

I have been looking over my figures for the head bolts of what I had written down a year or so ago, can somsone confirm these for me.

1. Tighten to 22 ft/lb

2. Tighten to 80 ft/lb

3. Loosen bolts completely to 0 ft/lbs

4. Tighten bolts to 22 ft/lbs

5. Turn bolts 85-90 degrees clockwise with an angle wrench, or tighten to 76-83 ft/lbs when torque wrench is used.

From looking over the nissan manual these appear to be the rb26 standard torque settings, and ARP recommeneds 109ft/lbs as the final figure is this tru for the rb20 also?

I am using ARP studs for the head.

85ft/lbs with moly lube will be sufficient.

Thanks anyway, The head is already bolted down and studs have 30w on them. I used the last of my molly lube on the ARP rod bolts.

its generally 20-30 more ft/lbs when using 30W oil for that size stud...so 109ft/lbs sounds like the right torque for 30W oil.

Edited by DiRTgarage
  • 5 weeks later...

No updates really...

The engine is sitting in my garage while I contemplate If I should do a external oil pump setup on it or just a billet pump.

The clutch is off at Jim Berry's being rebuilt so once I work out whats going on there It will be back in and running again..

Could always drysump it :(

Any ideas what I should do?

Edited by murrayis
  • 5 weeks later...

Nothing much to update, Spent last Sunday putting the engine back in the car hat a mission it is to line the gearbox up with the engine! I wont be doing that again in the car.

Today I was planning on getting it started etc so got all the wiring done, water and oil lines hooked up radiator and starter motor in... put 7 ltrs of oil in and started to fill the radiator and my feet were getting wet! Somehow I have lost the plastic bung out of the radiator I suspect one of the dogs as picked itup as a chew toy like they have done with the silicon tubes.

So I am on the hunt to find a new/replacement bung for the ASI radiator, I have emailed ASI so hope I can get a replacement from them.

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