Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is high temp sheathing that will cover the line you run for the wastegate and from there you can always take the rubber hose (for length) down to your local hydraulic hose guy and get them to make one up. Even if they needs to use a reducign bush for the M5 conneciton

its going to be tight to find something that will fit in there.

I would take out the nipples and braze some brass tube onto them that is about 40mm long and then have a olive/sleeve collet fitting connecting to a braided line. that way you can screw the original fittings in place and leave them in place and screw the lines in situ.

hope this makes sense. just take the gate with the fittings to pirtek/enzed and tell them what you want to do ;) probably cost a bit but it will work and withstand 100's of degrees.

cheers!

Once I get the car back I dont think I will have any choice but take the gate off and see what Enzed and Pirtek can do.

Roy, Yea gate cap is billet.

I spoke to NYTSKY who has the same gate he said he just used normal silicon but I assume his gate is mounted a tad further away from the main heat source.

AD4M, Thanks for that any links to suppliers who stock it?

Quick Update - Found the oil leak.... Appears the oil filter isnt done up quite enough so when the car gets dropped off this arvo I'll fix that up, Then I just have to get a replacement CAS and see if that resolves the problem with it not running.

Cameron.

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...

No real updates, been busy with work and other unexpected things.

I have over christmas installed a new Haltech ECU to replace the Adaptronic, I have just finished wiring up all the sensors etc and all that is remaining is to make a alloy bracket for the map sensor.

I also am trying to find a decent Catch can with -8 / -10 an fittings so I can plum in the breathers.

Once I find a some spare weekends I'll stick it on a trailer and take it to the dyno to start fresh with the tune.

Cheers

Cameron

No real updates, been busy with work and other unexpected things.

I have over christmas installed a new Haltech ECU to replace the Adaptronic, I have just finished wiring up all the sensors etc and all that is remaining is to make a alloy bracket for the map sensor.

I also am trying to find a decent Catch can with -8 / -10 an fittings so I can plum in the breathers.

Once I find a some spare weekends I'll stick it on a trailer and take it to the dyno to start fresh with the tune.

Cheers

Cameron

There is nothing decent readily available on the market, you will need to make one. -10 fittings are the way to go :D

I am looking to make something similar to what RIPS have done for their customers, fitting it where the battery tray is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...