Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oil surge....fuel surge. Both shit things especially in racing. Im surprised you know what one is and how to fit one up but yet not know the purpose behind it.

Yea well, like I said. It is not that I dont know WHAT it does. I just was unsure as to the real reason behind it. Thanks a lot for all of the info everyone.

I especially like the info on the Teflon braided hoses, I will have to be SURE to get those.

-Sayajin

Yea well, like I said. It is not that I dont know WHAT it does. I just was unsure as to the real reason behind it. Thanks a lot for all of the info everyone.

I especially like the info on the Teflon braided hoses, I will have to be SURE to get those.

-Sayajin

Yeh the teflon hose is where it's at, only problem is it requires different fittings from rubber hose so you can't use speedflow/earls nice colourful fittings with it they are normally just a silver fitting, more of an industrial type, on a good note though they are much cheaper :D What you spend on the hose you'll save on the fittings....

that's not true at all. I've used earls teflon line a number of times in the last 6 years or so, and the regular earls compression fittings fit on it no problem. you use it the same way as the stainless sheathed rubber hose. tape it, cut it, press in olive, assemble hose end. done. for fuel use I would then get it pressure tested to be safe.

hmmm, fair enough then. Was recommended to me to use specific teflon hose fittings and not rubber hose ones.....although I am not using the earls teflon hose it's an industrial brand, can't remember what it was...

Edit:

It says rubber and teflon line uses different fittings :D Maybe the guy in the shop I go to was unaware they make fittings for teflon hose....

well i can tell you with my own two hands i've fitted earls annodised compression fittings to teflon line. in fact if you follow the link it shows you pics of them. they work in exactly the same way as the rubber ones do. just possibly a slightly different wall thickness means they have two different product lines.

I've also got teflon hose fitted for my oil return to thhe sump with Earls anodised compression fittings connecting it up. Will use the teflon in place of my existing rubber braided lines to see if that eliminates the strong fuel vapour smell from the cabin. Otherwise it will be solid lines.

well i can tell you with my own two hands i've fitted earls annodised compression fittings to teflon line. in fact if you follow the link it shows you pics of them. they work in exactly the same way as the rubber ones do. just possibly a slightly different wall thickness means they have two different product lines.

Ok spoke to the guy in the shop again today when I was down there getting bits, he said you can use fittings for rubber braided line on teflon but they won't hold up to as much pressure, the fittings specifically designed to be used with teflon braided line (yes I know earls have a line of them too I thought I made that clear) actually bite into the line to give a better seal. In our case with fuel lines we are using teflon because it doesn't weep like rubber does, but generally people go to teflon lines because they hold more pressure than rubber. But if you want to use them for high pressure (3000psi odd) you need to use a completely different swaged on fitting anyway :nyaanyaa:

So who sells the best surge tank??

gcg website is down, and are's site is rubbish. Im thinking ill have to get off my ass and pay them a visit.

Also how many Ltrs does one need to be?

People run from 2-5L. Call up some fabricators as well, as some alloy pipe, with two ends and some threaded pipes handing out of it, cant cost as much as some of the surge tanks going around.

I'm not familiar with earl's, but the in the speed flow range teflon fittings are black and blue (instead of rubber braid fitting's being red and blue).

no. thats just part of there range. the normal ones are blue and red. in both brands

heres some hard lines i made for a s15picture041vi8.jpg

picture036ka5.jpg

no. thats just part of there range. the normal ones are blue and red. in both brands

heres some hard lines i made for a s15picture041vi8.jpg

picture036ka5.jpg

Niiiice. Hey Dave, are the pumps outside the boot? How come the feeds also enter the top, do they go down to the bottom of the tank? Also what the wires going to the top?

Cheers!

its a sard twin pump surge tank. all inclosed. i uses two gtr pumps or bosch or whatever you can fit in it hehe. very neat option

Dude thats a great set up real professional,where can i buy that surge tank from,and have you done the same set up to a r34 gtr yet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...