Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I've just ordered a new 2007 model HKS SSQV for my R33 GTST, just wodering if anyone knows anything about them, or have any ideas on how to fit them, is it the same as the old SSQV, any one used it on ur skyline yet?? any reviews?? any comments r welcome! I know i should've done more research before i buy it but just got excited when i saw it and bought it straight away ;)

Here is a pic!

post-22896-1176655626.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164702-2007-new-model-hks-ssqv/
Share on other sites

Looks pretty much the same as the old HKS SSQV, i've had a new one bought brand new in 2003.

Mine bolted straight onto the original stock bov mount, you'll have to block off your stock bov return pipe.

Unless your running a decent amount of boost it doens't sound the best.

have fun :nyaanyaa:

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

Hi all

I've just ordered a new 2007 model HKS SSQV for my R33 GTST, just wodering if anyone knows anything about them, or have any ideas on how to fit them, is it the same as the old SSQV, any one used it on ur skyline yet?? any reviews?? any comments r welcome! I know i should've done more research before i buy it but just got excited when i saw it and bought it straight away :P

Here is a pic!

how much mate?

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

One of my mate told me to get an Apexi AFC (Air Flow Converter), tune it and it will solve the problem, but that costs around $450 which is not cheap! but i will take it to the garage and see what they can do about it, also see how bad the idle problem is! I will let you all know

One of my mate told me to get an Apexi AFC (Air Flow Converter), tune it and it will solve the problem, but that costs around $450 which is not cheap! but i will take it to the garage and see what they can do about it, also see how bad the idle problem is! I will let you all know

Yes, this must be stock ECU related, I am going to buy an Emanage Ultimate sooner or later so I might run the Stockie for now...

Just seems a bitch that they run off these recirculation systems, the older nissans didnt run anything like this. they didnt run anything at all lol.

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

Yeah a friend of mine has fmic, aftermarket Blow off valve, bit more boost and has a SAFC car runs sweet!!!!

Can I just clarify something... We GTS25t owners cannot get anything to solve our idle problems if we choose to disconnect the stock recirculating valve and use a vent-to-atmo BOV?

Is it possible to still have the stock one connected, to control idle properly when you decelerate and come to a stop so you dont stall and still have the vent-to-atmo one as a primary?

Have you actually tried running an atmospheric venting BOV in place of the stock one? When i bought my car it had a turbosmart atmo BOV on the stock ecu, with the recirculating pipe blocked off with a welsh plug, and it ran without a problem at idle, accelerating, redlining, whatever. Later i bought a stock BOV for it, and there was no difference again, except the sound (i think atmo bovs are a wank anyway).

Make sure the return pipe is sealed up tight and it will work fine.

Hehe for $310 i think ur gonna get owned :)

Yeah i know its abit cheap, but seems like a very good seller with over 10000 ratings but yeah i'm taking my chances, someone's gotta get owned to find out if its the real deal! i will get back to ya when i get it! fingers crossed!!

Have you actually tried running an atmospheric venting BOV in place of the stock one? When i bought my car it had a turbosmart atmo BOV on the stock ecu, with the recirculating pipe blocked off with a welsh plug, and it ran without a problem at idle, accelerating, redlining, whatever. Later i bought a stock BOV for it, and there was no difference again, except the sound (i think atmo bovs are a wank anyway).

Make sure the return pipe is sealed up tight and it will work fine.

if its that easy!! then i will do wat you've done n save me the bucks!! sweeeeet

I was running T/S Vee port stock ECU, FMIC, 10 psi, zorst and no stalling or idle issues. ?

just a bit of pop pop out the zorst on gear changes!

Agreed, TurboSmart Veeport or Type II as they are also called, is the best and probably only atmo BOV I will ever use. In 6 years of using one, I have never had a drama with stalling or rough idle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...