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Slow Syncro

bikkies
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bikkies Contributor

bikkies

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I've got 2 R33s, one's a '94 GTS-T and the other's a '95 Type M- the syncro seems a bit slow on both of them, and is possible to beat on both up and downshifts, no crunching but felt resistance. Are they all like this or is this a sign of age/wear? One's 72,000 the others 92,000 kms so they're not ancient.

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Hardman69 Collaborator

Hardman69

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you are right in saying that they feel slow. My car has very low ks on it, and it's like this. same as my friends who has a brand new just jap box in it ($3200). It's just the way they are.

Yeah. 4th and 5th Synchro's are pathetic. 1st, 2nd & 3rd are okay, I've heard people get good results from a gutful of Redline lightweight shockproof. I've been quoted V.good prices to do a bearings & Synchros rebuld by 2 different places, food for thought.

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MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

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Yeah. 4th and 5th Synchro's are pathetic. 1st, 2nd & 3rd are okay, I've heard people get good results from a gutful of Redline lightweight shockproof. I've been quoted V.good prices to do a bearings & Synchros rebuld by 2 different places, food for thought.

I actually find 1-4 the same. 5th is the one that i find really slow - I put the gear stick there and wait for it to pop in. Feels like it's taking forever.

Having said that though, 1-4 feel pretty gay in the sense that they're a bit notchy. I know that that's the way that the box is, because my friend's r33 has a brand new box, and it's like this too (running vmx80 mineral oil - good stuff - i've used the synthetics except redline - wont' touch that crap, and imo vmx is the best for your box).

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

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I actually find 1-4 the same. 5th is the one that i find really slow - I put the gear stick there and wait for it to pop in. Feels like it's taking forever.

Having said that though, 1-4 feel pretty gay in the sense that they're a bit notchy. I know that that's the way that the box is, because my friend's r33 has a brand new box, and it's like this too (running vmx80 mineral oil - good stuff - i've used the synthetics except redline - wont' touch that crap, and imo vmx is the best for your box).

Out of the 33s I've driven, none have really performed how you said.

Mine slips straight into 5th not a drama, the only gear that is notchy occasionaly is second gear, and it has the syncros dieing on it.

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  • 1 month later...
Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted
Yeah. 4th and 5th Synchro's are pathetic. 1st, 2nd & 3rd are okay, I've heard people get good results from a gutful of Redline lightweight shockproof. I've been quoted V.good prices to do a bearings & Synchros rebuld by 2 different places, food for thought.

What sort of cost is involved in replacing synchros? I need to re-do mine.

My diff is also leaking, any idea on $$?

Cheers

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Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

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Synchro assemblies are about $130-150 each.

I've just had my box out and found the synchros were not worn out. The cone/ring assemblies were glazed and required bead blasting to de-glaze.

Reassembled and using VMX80 it is like a new box. Very precise and just notchy enough to let you know exactly where things are. Very large single synchro on 1st, then doubles on 2, 3. If there is any apparent weak link, it will be the quality of change from 4th-5th, going on the synchro design there.

FWIW, the internals look like they were designed to take lots more grunt than a stock RB25. There is even a factory-included internal trap door to prevent oil surging to the rear of the box under hard acceleration. Keeps the main gearset well lubricated. :whistling:

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