Buying An R33 Gtr, What Do I Need To Check

[GTRNUR]

Hi everyone,

Im looking to buy an R33 GTR and am after a check list of sorts to identify problem areas. I am familiar with R32's and the typical things like rust in the arches, worn suspension components, compression tests etc... but is there a list of things to check on the R33's that could potentially save me some coin down the track?

Cheers,

Ian

[ras1983]

same things as an R32 that you have listed. even a R33 is getting old (10+ years depending on the year).

best bet is to get one of two kinds:

stock well cared for example (of which there are several for sale at the moment - including mine ).

recently rebuilt modified example (will save you a LOT of money on mods if the mods have been done by a good workshop).

[350z]

check the paint - is it original, is the seller being honest

if sprayed - why? how much of the car was sprayed compared to how much the seller has stated is sprayed?

is it worth driving that far just to be dissapointed?

[lingeringsoul]

check you have enough money in the bank account when shit hits the fan

[frankxinyu]

oil presure, how well the car vacummes compression test etc..

[350z]

also be sure you check out the nissan blue build plate -

is the plate there?

you should be able to feel the letters if its legitimate

car original colour as stated?

vspec (if stated)

pm me if you need any help

something tacky going on if you dont have it or if you cant feel those letters haha

[GT-R32]

check the paint - is it original, is the seller being honest

if sprayed - why? how much of the car was sprayed compared to how much the seller has stated is sprayed?

is it worth driving that far just to be dissapointed?

I was going to send you a PM to say congrats on finally getting a car. But with your second emotionally fuelled outburst subtlety directed at me I won't.

I was never going to drive my car to Sydney so you could show your Dad (a ridiculous expectation really!). I accepted your apology after you insulted me several times when I said I wouldn't. I accepted your low offer based on ease of transaction that resulted in 2 or so months of flip flopping on your behalf. I sent you multiple photos (20+) at your requests.

So you eventually decide to take the drive to Canberra. When here your Dad asks you after 30mins 'so what do you think?' you answer about my car sheepishly: 'it's perfect'. Your Dad finds overspray on a rubber and it is all over, you didn't even start the car! You made a guy drive from Newcastle based on the same promise of purchase and sent him home based on paint again.

I told you the car had been resprayed, and frankly it looks better for it. Why the obsession with paint? What is paint? It is just that: Paint. Anyone experienced in cars, panel beating etc can see past it. My brother is a panel beater. Inner panels have never been off my car.

You need to learn to bight your tongue. You need to learn how buying and selling works. I am again insulted you are publicly and outwardly bitter about something I was very patient and only ever honest about. You have a lot of growing up to do and I am f**k all older than you.

As for buying an R33:

Look interstate. Expand you market. It is always a risk of course, just be careful. I bought my car interstate and couldn’t be happier. Known Australian history, low kms backed up with a compression test and mechanical inspection. I even have the original brochure that came with it.

Judge the seller and the car. Ask questions you know the answer to. Be objective. Never let your emotions come into play, it is a destructive attitude.

1983's advice was also good on the GTRs in general. There are a lot of good R33 GTRs for sale at the moment, the market is flooded. Choose well and you won't be happier. So much car for your money.

[d-d]

^ Told!

[GTRNUR]

Thanks everyone.

So the check list so far is...

1. Rust check, in wheel arches, chasssis, pan, boot, engine bay, behind intercooler and everywhere in general.

2. Compression test, do one. (What pressure is right for an RB26?). I guess around 150-160 and they all need to be very close.

3. Put the car on a hoist. Check the suspension, tie rod ends, bushes, diff and cradle mounts, shock/coilovers.

4. Look in the radiator for signs of brown discolouration, (indicating water only and not coolant use).

5. Receipts, look at them all.

6. Oil pressure.

7. Paint check. Even if it has been resprayed and looks tidy it can indicate a hit, which means seams that can fill with water and rust can then start.

8. Blue plate check (model, vspec? factory colour, manufacture date)

9. Log books, check last service date and get details of when major service items like gearbox, transfer case and timing belt were done.

10. Judge the seller and the car. (I guess this means look for signs your listening to BS), and leave emotion at the door.

Keep the suggestions coming. I'm checking out my perspective GTR this friday and need to be prepared!

Cheers,

Ian

[WasteD]

check the paint - is it original, is the seller being honest

if sprayed - why? how much of the car was sprayed compared to how much the seller has stated is sprayed?

is it worth driving that far just to be dissapointed?

so touchy over paint lol

[fuzzy_scuz]

I am a proud owner of an r33 Vspec, and have recently got it re-sprayed to the same factory colour.

Now let me tell you about Jap paint.

1. The UV protection is a bit ordinary so expect cars 10+ old to be a bit dull in colour

2. Most Jap cars have rust under the body if they have spent a few winters in Japan, due to snow etc...

3. Most GTR's esp r33's will looking at having seals replaced due to rubber perishing

So in short you aren't going to get a car that isn't 100% perfect, you need to go with what is fixable and easiest to repair.

As for mine I brought it knowing the duco was dull, chipped, scratched and weathered, don't get me wrong for a 10 year old car it held up pretty well. My car was brought to Aust from new, no Rust underneath the car at all. I have had all the seals replaced while the car was being re-sprayed to make sure there was no over spray on rubber seals + the whole car was done not parts of it. I have been busy bringing things back to stock like mirror glass etc, due to shody compliance parts.

But cars like that are rare to come buy and if they are around owners are not willing to part with them easily. All owners on these forums take really good care of there cars and are picky about what is done to do it. Keep looking as really good condition GTR 33's are very hard to come buy that are actually for sale.

[32vspecII]

I told you the car had been resprayed, and frankly it looks better for it. Why the obsession with paint? What is paint? It is just that: Paint. Anyone experienced in cars, panel beating etc can see past it. My brother is a panel beater. Inner panels have never been off my car.

pain hides damage and respray is a big red flag

thats not to say yours isnt legit but many would be wary

personally when i bought my last gtr i only had 3 criteria

rust

accident damage

and comp/leak down results

[GT-R32]

pain hides damage and respray is a big red flag

thats not to say yours isnt legit but many would be wary

personally when i bought my last gtr i only had 3 criteria

rust

accident damage

and comp/leak down results

Fair call mate. But being weary and being unreasonable are mutually exclusive.

Some cars aren't resprayed due to accident damage. Check inner panels/supports, bodywork (bog/prep underneath can easily be seen by those in the know), original brackets etc and of course 'chassis' rails. For example, dealers in particular are notorious for painting cars for presentation purposes (ie. you can get an extra $2k for cleaning something up).

Paint hides damage only if you aren't experienced enough to see past it.

[700HP-GTR33]

Hi everyone,

Im looking to buy an R33 GTR and am after a check list of sorts to identify problem areas. I am familiar with R32's and the typical things like rust in the arches, worn suspension components, compression tests etc... but is there a list of things to check on the R33's that could potentially save me some coin down the track?

Cheers,

Ian Swinkels

After you buy it when all has been checked out.....change the following

1 Coil pack

2 oil pump

3 water pump

4 all belts...which include timing...and timing gear bolts...have heard of some breaking ,so you might as well.

5 spark plugs

6 oil and air filters........making sure you clean the afm's.

Most of all get some new oil for the gear box...diff...engine and may as well flush your radiator.

All the right oils will be listed in this Forum....ie redline shockproof for gearbox

After you have done this....get a tune......even if it has the standard computer.

One friend of mine bought a gtr...which had been stripped of everything bar the HKS cams...

So he though nothing of it until motor went pop at high revs.....HKS cams only work with AM computers.

How was he to know...

This all might be a bit to much for some on this forum but prevention is better than the cure.

[aarongtr]

I was going to send you a PM to say congrats on finally getting a car. But with your second emotionally fuelled outburst subtlety directed at me I won't.

I was never going to drive my car to Sydney so you could show your Dad (a ridiculous expectation really!). I accepted your apology after you insulted me several times when I said I wouldn't. I accepted your low offer based on ease of transaction that resulted in 2 or so months of flip flopping on your behalf. I sent you multiple photos (20+) at your requests.

So you eventually decide to take the drive to Canberra. When here your Dad asks you after 30mins 'so what do you think?' you answer about my car sheepishly: 'it's perfect'. Your Dad finds overspray on a rubber and it is all over, you didn't even start the car! You made a guy drive from Newcastle based on the same promise of purchase and sent him home based on paint again.

I told you the car had been resprayed, and frankly it looks better for it. Why the obsession with paint? What is paint? It is just that: Paint. Anyone experienced in cars, panel beating etc can see past it. My brother is a panel beater. Inner panels have never been off my car.

You need to learn to bight your tongue. You need to learn how buying and selling works. I am again insulted you are publicly and outwardly bitter about something I was very patient and only ever honest about. You have a lot of growing up to do and I am f**k all older than you.

As for buying an R33:

Look interstate. Expand you market. It is always a risk of course, just be careful. I bought my car interstate and couldn’t be happier. Known Australian history, low kms backed up with a compression test and mechanical inspection. I even have the original brochure that came with it.

Judge the seller and the car. Ask questions you know the answer to. Be objective. Never let your emotions come into play, it is a destructive attitude.

1983's advice was also good on the GTRs in general. There are a lot of good R33 GTRs for sale at the moment, the market is flooded. Choose well and you won't be happier. So much car for your money.

Working in the industry, I thought I should throw my two cents through the pot. Paint is my life, its bought my house and its hopefully going to buy me an R32 or R33 gtr within the next few weeks. naturally, i have started to confirm my research before I buy and find this website to be a gold mine of information.

Being a panel beater, I have fixed and covered up some dodgy shit in my life upon clients requests. Although what I fix may be road legal and look as good as new.. it will never be the same. Just as important as the original condition is the way the car was sprayed. Masking rubbers doesnt seal paint correctly and you will find that over time it will become flake guranteed. You will find that professional panel beaters will actually take the rubbers around windows and door trims off before spraying. It takes extra time, but not doing so is simply unethical due to the inevitable factors of time and weather. Really just a receipe for disaster.

Many sellers find new paint an advantage and this is a common misconception which has also stopped me from purchasing many cars. Paint is paint, but paint hides defects and it hides history as I have seen first hand.

GT-R32, Out of curiousity I searched for and actually found your car ad on this forum, I couldnt help but notice that the engine bay original blue plate is missing. Therefore nobody will even be able to know or confirm the original colour of the car. Every buyer would have every right to be concerned. Original colour? Original vin? Genuine vspec? If you have this plate (and im sure you do), simply just put it back on and im sure it will sell for you!

Anyone buying a gtr, make sure this plate is attached to any car you buy and that when you run your fingers over it you can feel the letters. Otherwise chances are its probably couterfeit, also hiding history. (Car is hot from japan? Car may be 2 half cuts?)

Happy shopping!!!!!!!!!!

Edited June 17, 2007 by aarongtr

[Grinners]

Anyone buying a gtr, make sure this plate is attached to any car you buy and that when you run your fingers over it you can feel the letters. Otherwise chances are its probably couterfeit, also hiding history. (Car is hot from japan? Car may be 2 half cuts?)

Erm... this says otherwise:

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

From "What to look for" URL = http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=35129

I checked out a 1997 Series 3 Silver R33 GTR a few years ago. It had this engraved Nissan Plate, but at the time I didn't know that this meant that it was a forged build plate

I am confused.

Edited June 19, 2007 by Grinners

[aarongtr]

your right!

amendment ........................ Anyone buying a gtr, make sure this plate is attached to any car you buy and that when you run your fingers over it you can NOT feel the letters. Otherwise chances are its probably couterfeit, also hiding history. (Car is hot from japan? Car may be 2 half cuts?)

sorry guys left a word out

[justin911]

wheres this blue plate thingy on a r33 gtr ?

anyone got any pics ?

[justin911]

ooo i c it now in one my pics.

never mind ppls

carry on... as u were