Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What ballpark figures have people been paying for new crank angle sensors for R33's?

I have searched and found only one post stating it was around $900.

I have had 1 CAS go to 20 degrees retarded timing no mater what setting the CAS was on (with the timing belt cover on)

2nd time around, removed the cover, and used 3 washers to space out the 2nd hand CAS ($300) to stop it from grinding the insider part of it against the block. Currently at full tilt to the left, it is only giving 5 degrees advanced timing at idle. The odd thing is though, that when only slightly loosening one of the bolts, the idle changes. The washers are spacing the CAS roughly 4-5mm away from the engine. For those not using the cover, how many mm is yours spaced out?

My mechanic does not want to proceed in dyno tuning my car which I trust his decision, stating that whilst i have a power fc and he can advance the timing, it is a bandaid solution and not ideal.

Going to borrow someone's CAS tomorrow to confirm the bad news of another replacement CAS to purchase.

Edited by silman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164810-r33-crank-angle-sensor/
Share on other sites

another very rare possibility is that the cam has broken. my mate had a similar problem with his CA18 (very similar setup to a rb25). we put another CAS in and it worked ok for a little while, but then it stuffed right up. we thought it may be that the timing belt had jumped a tooth but he ended up converting it to an SR20. the fell he sold his motor to (who knew it was crap) opened it up and found that the cam had snapped just near the CAS, and it was only just holding together enough to still spin the CAS, but would occasionally slip a bit more behind.

Update - tried the CAS from a working car, set it to the middle position with 3 washers and it was at 15+ ignition at idle, so it's new CAS time for me.

Just to help out anyone who is looking for a new one in the future and comes across this thread, Justjap can source 2nd hand ones for double that price ^

Highway Nissan in Brisbane wanted $883 delivered, none in Australia has to come from Japan and will take 3 weeks.

www.perfectrun.com.au sells it for $490 brand new + delivery and it will be here in 3 days. I've successfully purchased from them about 10 times, absolute godsend >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...