How To Install Speakers Into Skyline Doors...

[08yannch]

Can anyone recommend someone who does a great job like this in Melbourne? With the sound deadening and all?

hay man just do it ur self its easy. all u need is a screw driver, pliers, soldering iron, solder, some shrink sleeve, stanley knife. (basic)

all above + some MDF, pen, paper, drill, and a wood cutting tool either router or jigsaw or both, some nuts and bolts, and some silicon sealant (advanced)

i have done this and if u just take ur time a full day is all u need 2 do both doors.

i have done the custom speaker door mounts and custom pasale *spelling soz* shelf and trust me all u need is 2 take ur time and have a good plan of what u want 2 do. if u dont have the tools needed then just buy some it will cost only a little more than it would 2 have somebody else do the install and u will have tools

[Fastrotor]

Why did you leave the top hole open when you seem adamant about sealing the rest so well ?

Only downside to all that dynamat covering the holes is if something needs fixing.

If i had some panels laser cut to suit, and dynamat'd them and screwed in place would this be ok ? That way i'd retain full easy access to the doors..... as i know my luck if i sealed them up like in the pics !.

Gary

[Fhrx]

Only downside to all that dynamat covering the holes is if something needs fixing.

One of the main reasons we use Dynamat over other deadening variants such as SoundOFF and Roadkill is that it can be peeled off to allow access to the inner door workings if required. I have six layers on my heap (three inner / three outer) and I recently peeled it back so the paintless dent guy could get in there and take out some annoying little dimples in the doors.

Edited June 16, 2010 by Fhrx

[Owgasm]

What speakers on the rear fellas?

How hard is it to run 6.5 in front or would 6s be the go?

[08yannch]

6" is the easiest. but if u re make the speaker mount out of mdf 6.5" is the way to go.

if u can use a jig saw and drill u can make a mdf mount.

when i made mine it took about 2 hr. 1 hr to make a template and 1 hr to cut out two new mounts. i used a jig saw, drill and router.

[Owgasm]

Thanks for that.

Are you referring to the front new MDF mounts or rear?

As I don't want to run amps all over the car etc and not wanting much extra weight.

Fronts 6.5 or 6" do you reckon?

Rears, do you think its worth it makng a new parcel shelf for 6x9s?

If not, will 6.5s fit, or are factory ones 6"?

Anyone know what the mounting depth/ depth of the speaker is that will allow it to fit?

Battery terminal is right under it.

[08yannch]

fronts go with the 6.5" with mdf mounts "its easy" and alot stronger than the stock plastic mount.

but for the rear im not sure. i re made the parcel shelf for 6x9s my self, but this is alot of work and if i could do it again i would really consider 6.5" for the back. but im not to sure about fitting them to the stock mounts. u should do a search because i think 6.5" in the back has been covered b4. and when it comes to depth u should be fine, but u may have a taller battery than me so u should check the gap with a measuring tape. think the gap between the battery and the metal shelf + 10mm for depth.

if u want to re make the parcel shelf use the original parcel shelf as a templet and what i did was use foam bed underlay on the underside for a nice fit. u will need mdf, carpet, nuts and bolts, jig saw, drill, staple gun, power sander (belt if possible) and a router will come in handy. also if u have child restraints u will have to make allowances for them.

pm me if u have any questions and i will do a proper right up

[Fhrx]

Seeing as you sit at the front and your ears face forwards, I'd recommend you spend all your money there.

Edited June 27, 2010 by Fhrx

[r32man09]

Hey ppl

Recently I have installed pioneer 6.5 splits into the front off my r32 gtst 4 door. Has anyone tried to install them and had probes with depth issues? Tried 12mm mdf and 16 mm no difference the magnet is still hitting the window? Are the windows different in a 4 door? How can I fix this prob??

Cheers

[Chris Rogers]

in short - buy shallower speakers OR duplicate the 4x6 mount properly. that mount is angled for a reason.

[kewldesire]

very helpfull thanks

[Ruxis]

Why did you have to rewire it?? Couldn't you use the existing wiring??

[Captain Kermit]

Why did you have to rewire it?? Couldn't you use the existing wiring??

You can use existing wiring however if you're installing an amplifier the speakers will need thicker wiring to allow more current through. Little things like this help you tell a quality install from a rush job.

[chilzzi]

I recently installed a pair of 6.5" Focal's on the stock plastic speaker mounts in the rears of my R33 coupe.

At first the magnet frame fouled the body of the car. The solution for this was to just swivel the speaker around and redrilling the holes.

The other issue was getting the child restraint bracket in place, had to file the frame slighty for the bracket to slip into place again. The other challenging thing was the position of the bolts and having access to get to them, especially the ones right near the glass. Patience and perseverance is the key!

and presto! see pics.

Edited February 27, 2014 by chilzzi

[MrBurns]

Inspired by this thread, I finally got around to doing this to my R33. I'd never done anything like this before so am a total noob when it comes to all of this, but luckily it all turned out ok.

Almost everything went smoothly except for feeding the new speaker wiring through the door plug sockets. I don't know how you blokes managed to pop those things out as not only could I barely even see them (even after removing ecu etc) but I sure as hell couldn't get my fingers to them let alone some tools to get them out. As a workaround I just drilled some new holes through the sheet metal and fed the wiring through the existing rubber boot on the door. I painted some anti-rust paint over the new hole I drilled and put some of these rubber grommets in there just in case, so it should be ok.

Went through pretty much an entire box of Dynamat Extreme Bulk Pack as I put it on both front doors (outer and inner panels) as well as the quarter panels under the rear windows (outer and inner panels also). Totally f'd up my spine dicking about in the back seat doing the later. Overall, the whole dynamatting experience was definitely doable by anyone as its not rocket science, but geez it aint fun especially during an Adelaide summer. While I was at it I replaced all of those little bastard plastic door clips as they were all stuffed causing my panels to rattle.

I made some new speaker baffles out of MDF and totally smothered them in multiple layers of epoxy resin (dyed black) to prevent the mdf from getting water damaged. I noticed that on days when it rained, the area behind the speakers gets a surprisingly large amount of rain splashing down in there (must drip down from the window glass). So I found these speaker shield things, trimmed and resined them onto the baffles as well to provide an umbrella, similar to what u guys did. To help lock the bolts that hold the speakers in place I used these screws (had to cut them down a bit) & tee nuts, by resining the tee nuts into the baffles. The screws are now nice & tight when screwed in. For the gasket between the baffle and door panel I used some leftover cam cover gasket silicone I had from when I replaced my cam cover gasket recently. It worked perfectly. For the gasket between the speakers and the baffle I used some of this double-sided speaker foam. Making these baffles took the most time but was worth it as they're way more solid than the stock crappy plastic things that were there before.

While my door panels were off I also fixed my rattly windows by tightening the guide thingy's at the top of the door panels only to discover that the rubber on the guide rails had fallen to bits, so had to get up in there through the speaker hole and superglue this rubber back together again. Sprayed some silicone spray on the rubber as well which makes it nice n smooth for the glass to glide over. My windows are now nice and quiet & smooth like new.

Overall the noise level has become subtly yet noticibly quieter with the dynamat installed and ALL of the incredibly annoying rattles are now gone, so was definitely worth it. Sounds like a new car again - nice n quiet. Haven't cranked my stereo yet as my new amp still needs sorting, but I'm guessing the resonance that previously plagued my door panels will be reduced if not gone now too.

Some pics:

New resined baffles with my new Alpine SPR-60C Type R Speakers.

Shows the water umbrella thing I've resined to the baffle to help protect againt water splashing onto the speakers.

Can see the silicone and foam gaskets

Some dynamat on the outer layer of the rear quarter panels.

Can see where the tee nuts are moulded into the baffle - these are the odd looking lumps on the inside ring of the baffle. Even though they appear to stick out, they're just small enough not to collide with the speaker frame.

Edited March 9, 2014 by MrBurns

[chilzzi]

Finally did the fronts properly.

Passenger before and after;

And drivers side;

[vetter2769]

Such a shame to hide all your handy work behind the door cards

You've done an absolute impeccable job considering it was your first attempt.

Coating the MDF in resin = very smart idea, MDF and water just don't mix!

again, well done!

[Chris Rogers]

well done! thats how this should be done.

[r34davE]

Loving seeing so many people spending the time to do a decent sounding install! :-D

I dynamatted and dynalined my front doors, built custom 18mm MDF door pods and sealed them with gaskets and sikaflex before installing some 6.5" speakers. Plenty of dynamic range, minimal door rattle even at a full 85WRMS each from my stealth installed micro amp. Oh and it still looks completely stock (I had to sacrifice a little clarity by installing 2-ways instead of splits but I regret nothing). Because I ran 12AWG wiring, I utilized the factory door jamb grommets instead of running my wiring through the middle of the plug.

I originally dynamatted my parcel shelf and installed some 6.5" speakers but it sounded shit (poor speaker choice and sounded out of phase with the front) and was pissing off my passengers so I installed some component midranges without tweeters and ran them low pass at 60Hz in reverse phase to the front and it sounds 100 times better. I'm currently in the process of switching them out and installing a more powerful amp with some dedicated 6.5" free air subwoofers. One of our Northern Queensland stores did a similar install in an R33 and they only had good things to say about it...

Hopefully when I'm done I should have decent bass, clarity and volume with a completely stock looking interior - that's the aim anyway :-)

[ausdrift]

Been continuing my splits install today and it has taken a long time. A few tips that I have learned the hard way...

Don't bother trying to make thicker speakers fit in the original location; just make new mounts out of MDF

Sound deaden while you have the doors apart. It takes time but the improved sound quality is worth the time/cost

The thread size for the screws which hold the speaker in place are 12G

For the door wiring plugs, Yes, they are a bitch to thread new wires through, but not impossible, so persevere with it. The plug is made up of a male and female part, the female part hangs onto the body of the car while the male will pull out. Use the correct size spanner (10?) to undo the single bolt and if you have on a racheting spanner makes this much faster. Keep undoing until finally you can pull out the male part of the plug. It is a little awkward to reach, but when you get in there not so hard as the plastic surround is mated to a rubber backing, so there is some flexibility and movement to it all. Then you can go ahead and drill out the space inside to thread the new wire through and install.