How To Install Speakers Into Skyline Doors...

[Fhrx]

When you're doing them you'll need to remove the computer from memory. This allows you to get the plug out from the body side of the car (it comes out backwards).

Regarding the metal clips, they're what actually holds the sockets into the body. If you dropped them down into the body then head down your local Jaycar and get yourself a magnetic probe like this:

Use this to dig around and find those clips.

Edited August 28, 2007 by Fhrx

[chicane]

Thanks fhrx, will pick up one of those things and see how i go on the weekend..

[chicane]

What a job, its finally done now though! those plugs are an absolute mongrel to work with.. worth it in the end though, got jaycar bitumen + flashtac to deaden the door, flush mounted tweeters at the top corner of the door trims, finished it at 2am last night.

Job done =)

[nissanskyrice]

Just started my install today in an r34. damn those plugs are a pain. i have the passenger door off to get that bloody plug out. installing eclipse 2way splits. still deciding whether or not to install the tweeters on the little triangle blank panel on the inside of the mirror or on the A pillar. anyone know how to get that little triangle panel off the door???

EDIT: Never mind.. they just pull off. Got the tweeters mounted (had to grind the screws down to size got the sound deadening done. ready to stick the passenger door back on the car but have to wait for my housemate to wake up to give me a hand. and then on to the drivers side door. yaaaaay hopefully the rest of the install goes easier than the doors.

Edited September 15, 2007 by nissanskyrice

[SO PHAT]

Great Read well done champ........ Couldn't have made it ant simpler... Found out some good facts too cheers DaN............

[ashneel]

installin 6" kicker splits in my R33 and it sounds a bit to much to do lol

is there any other way to run the wires from the door intot he car???

also will 6" fit the stock speaker hole on the door or is it to small????

thanks

Ash

[VSPEC-33]

installin 6" kicker splits in my R33 and it sounds a bit to much to do lol

is there any other way to run the wires from the door intot he car???

also will 6" fit the stock speaker hole on the door or is it to small????

thanks

Ash

I squeezed 6.5" Focal in my 33, mind you the air drill had to used to give some clearance ro make the front face a bit more circular. And if it had a back on it i thing it jigsawed it off.

A 6" shouldnt be too difficult as long as it doesnt have a massive basket on it.

[sewid]

I just put some Alpine 6.5" type-R splits in the front of my R33 (well the drivers side so far) as well as sound deadening the inside and outside. The Alpine Type-R woofers fit perfectly in the factory pods which was a nice timesaver.

Sound deadening is a bastard of a job.

[sewid]

oh and i made my own Dynamat application tool from a tiny paint roller and a rubber door stopper from bunnings which cost about $4 because I couldn't find any proper tools.

Works great.

[woodstock88]

hey nice lookin install there, but how do ya get the door trim off? where abouts are the clips? i dont wanna snap em by pulling at the wrong part of the panel. cheers

[JAGR33]

Just a quick question, how much weight does the dynamat sound deadening (inner and outer door skin) add to each door?? Rough estimate would be great.

And also how much would it cost to get each door done as per your tutorial (rough price). PM me if necessary..

Cheers.

[Robert Knight]

Hi There, I was putting front speakers in my 33GTR today and all went fairly well but when I took the passenger door trim off and did the job I noticed a black wire about 9" long attached to a bolt on the door but it had no terminal end on it and didn't connect up to anything obvious to me in the entire radius of the wire,any idea what it is for??

Also I wondered about the benefits of fitting the sound deadener, does it give a punchier sound because of less sound escaping to the outside of the car or what??

Also do you think that using the original pod to mount the speakers in affects the sound quality much as it provides a rain shield and it keeps everything away from the electric window, if anything I was going to cut the piece of the pod off that sits at the back of the magnet to give the sound more back space to move around What do you think??

Btw Great article,Cheers Rob.

[turbo_brian]

Robert,

Sound Deadener is used because it's YOUR music, not everyone out side the car's music

It does make an awesome difference to your sound, it means your sound stays in the car, but more importantly, road noise, traffic noise, and other imperfections in sound stay OUTSIDE the car, meaning your audio pleasure is not interupted by unwanted noise.

With the Diffuser panels that MArty used in the previous page, theya re there to stop the sound of the speaker going into the door, bouncing off the sound deadener, and coming back out (giving a kind of echo effect). What they do is spread the rebounded sound and diffuse it into the door (thus the reason for the 2nd layer of deadener as well).

As always, these photos are Marty at his absolute best, and doing what he always does (a brilliant job).

On the odd occasion I have seen MArty's work, usually so infrequent that he forgets me every time, but whenever I see photos or work he has done, it's always so detailed, and complete that I know it's an FHRX install.

B.

[some_cs_student]

Just a quick question, how much weight does the dynamat sound deadening (inner and outer door skin) add to each door?? Rough estimate would be great.

A little late to answer and you probably know by now but anyway...

457mm x 812mm (or 0.371m^2) per Dynamat Xtreme sheet (from a bulk pack), so I used about 6 sheets or 2.226m^2.

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_xtreme.html is 2.2kg/m^2 so therefore about 2450grams per door of sound deadening

Or nearly 5kg all up.

BUT, my speakers were big and I'd say they've added a bit, as did the spacers, as will the amp.....its a street car in the end, if I was worried about weight I'd remove the back seats during a track day (or the passenger seat) lol

Required materials

Just for anyone who is planning to do the sound deadening, I just completed my one on an R33 GTR. I used 5.4 sheets and a lot of offcuts, so about 6 sheets to do a thorough job (ie. more than an xtreme trunk kit).

If you run out FHRX studios have good prices per sheet

Time

Sound deadening sounds relatively easy, how long could it take?

I spent hours degreasing my doors, there was a ton of grease inside them, the outer door skin is extremely difficult to do and takes many hours, I spent a weekend on it

Inner door skin is much easier although I had a lot of trouble removing the black glue from the door and the grease it left behind.

Including spacers (which I had some issues with), I used 16mm spacers as I had large speakers (nearly 2.8inch depth), tweeters (used the standard place but not placed perfectly) and crossovers.

Crossovers

If you have really large crossovers (the ones I had were unusually big, they did power to woofer and tweeter!) above the support horizontal bar in the door was the only place the power window would go past it without knocking them down.

Spacers/bolts

Personally I used 16mm MDF, pretty extreme but the speakers are deep. I used 12G/25mm roof bolts from bunnings as replacements for the stock bolts and I threw away the standard plastic mount for the speaker.

Weather

Dynamat xtreme works without heat, but leaving it in the sun for a while does make it easier to work with and it seems to stick a little more easily...

Good luck if you try it, once I have the amplifier I'll find out if it was worth it

Oh, and Marty/FHRX, excellent guide and excellent customer service

[BIT SUS]

Hey guys.

I've just finished sound deadening all four doors on my Stagea, and THEN found this thread. Doh!

I spent a total of 15 hours sound deadening and 8.5 sheets of Dynamat Extreme (bought the bulk pack for $300)

I used the factory FRONT Stagea speaker spacer/mounts for both the front and the REAR. Thanks to a fellow stag owner who was wrecking one out my way! They are a solid plastic item, and with attention to detail and slight modification, they make a mighty fine solid mount. I used sikaflex as a gasket between the mounts and the door.

I applied the dynamat to the WHOLE outer skin, as well as the inner skin. I even put some sikaflex around the door handle mounts and lubricated the actuator rods and slides with some G501 plastic grease. That is where most of the 15 hours went!

I'll upload the only pics I have of one door, as I got too carried away (and hungry) to remember to take progress pics!

At the moment I only have cheap JBL 6.5" splits that are running off the headunit, so they are hooked up to the factory speaker wire for the time being. When my new speakers arrive, I'll need to run some 14 guage speaker wire through the door jams and into the footwell area. From what I have read above, it seems it will be a difficult task. From what I can see whilst sound deadening, the stagea doesn't have plugs, its just a hard wired loom? I could be wrong tho. I'll also look at getting some Dynaxorb pads for the outter skins behind the speakers.

For those that are interested, when im done, I'll have two sets of high-end 6.5" component splits with tweeters mounted in the A pillars and in the C pillars. Crossovers will be mounted in the boot with several amps and other gear.

I'd like to thank my beautiful girlfriend Jess for helping me and being ever so patient for the whole weekend. I think she fell asleep in the back seat at one stage :S

Wait till I tell her I need to do the whole boot, quarter panels and tailgate!!!

Nigel

Edited May 10, 2009 by BIT SUS

[kb-r33]

nice nice.. i will have to do the same thing to my car soon

[snoopwogg]

Sweet Thanks

[D0seK1ng]

ta for this.

[dav0001]

nice work with the photo's, great tutorial !

[dav0001]

Can anyone recommend someone who does a great job like this in Melbourne? With the sound deadening and all?